How to Make a Recumbent Seat

Recumbent seats provide cyclists with maximum comfort. The incline reduces stress on the knees and back. This allows riders with back and knee injuries to reap the benefits of cycling without absorbing its bodily shock. Homemade recumbent seats can be highly adjustable to meet the physical needs of any rider.



Hard-shell seats offer a one-size-fits-all approach to cycling. The recumbent-style seat and bicycle was invented because there are myriad body shapes and sizes. A quality recumbent seat can be adjusted to perfectly cushion any body. A well-made recumbent seat boasts the ability to ride 100 miles with no pain or discomfort.

Things You'll Need

  • 12 feet of 7/8-inch OD aluminum CB antenna tubing
  • Sheet metal cutters
  • Mounted vice clamp
  • Welding torch
  • Tape measure
  • 6 by 2-inch piece of weight-bearing nylon
  • A dozen 1/8-inch wide, 1 1/16-inch long bolts
  • A dozen 1/8-inch wide nuts
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Instructions

    • 1

      Cut the aluminum tubing with sheet metal cutters. Cut a 17-inch section for the base, an 18-inch piece for the support strut and a 16-inch section to connect the crown. For the exterior frame you will need to cut two sections of tubing at 80 inches in length.

    • 2

      Place your exterior tubing (two 80-inch sections) parallel to each other. At the bottom of the tubing where the sections are adjacent, place the 17-inch base between the ends. Line these up precisely. Weld the 17-inch base to the exterior on both sides.

    • 3

      Bend the frame using a strong, mounted vice grip. Measure 3.5 inches from the welding point on each side. Bend the aluminum to a 30-degree angle on each side in a smooth, even convex shape. This will provide the sloped contour that minimizes shock to your lower back and knees.

    • 4

      Bend the frame at 35 inches past your first welding point. Begin by building a small, 20-degree concave U-shape approximately 4 inches long. At the end of the concave shape, bend the aluminum backwards at an angle between 100 and 120 degrees. After the bend, allow the frame to travel upward in a straight path. The angle you choose is based on personal preference. The more obtuse the angle the more potential stress you will place on the lumbar section of your spine.

    • 5
      Exercise care and follow all safety protocol when welding.

      Weld the 18-inch section of tubing you cut at the beginning. This piece will provide weight-bearing support and structural stability to the most vulnerable section of the frame. This beam should be set horizontally at the beginning of the concave bend which leads to the back-frame. Before welding, make sure the 18-inch length adequately connects to the frame's exterior. If there is a discrepancy, simply bend the aluminum at the welding points so the gap is exactly 18 inches.

    • 6

      Measure the diagonal distance 6 inches from the base of the frame to 6 inches above the base of the back-frame. The length should be around 16 inches. Cut two pieces of aluminum tube to the exact length of the diagonal gap. Weld these struts to the 6-inch point from the base to the 6-inch point on the back-frame. Do this on both sides. This will help evenly distribute the weight of the rider and minimize potential injuries.

    • 7

      Drill 1/8-inch holes from the top to the base of the frame in 3-inch intervals. Drill all the way down the tubing to create carefully aligned 1/8-inch holes on the interior and exterior of the frame.

    • 8

      Cut a section of thick nylon that covers the length and width of the frame. It doesn't need to be exact. You can trim away excess material later.

    • 9

      Cut small holes (approximately 1/16 inch) into the nylon seat cover. Cut these holes on both sides and line them up with the holes you drilled in the frame. Insert 1/8-inch wide, 1 1/16-inch long bolts through the nylon. Push them through the frame holes and out the other side. Since the tubing is 7/8 inches thick, there will be enough room to screw a nut to each protruding bolt. Fasten the nuts as firmly to the frame as possible.

    • 10
      The recumbent bicycle is a very modern twist on a timeless device.

      Assess your work. At this point you have a complete, load-bearing, smoothly contoured recumbent seat. After road-testing your new seat, consider adding additional weight-bearing struts and supports as needed. You can always bend the frame to better suit your physical needs as well.