How to Make Umanori Hakama

Umanori hakama are one of the two types of hakama, or large, culotte-like trousers used in Japanese culture. Whilst hakama were originally intended to be worn by samurai to protect their clothing from underbrush and vegetation, Umanori hakama were intended to be worn by workers in the fields or forests. They are looser around the waist and the legs are narrower than the other type, andon bakama.

Things You'll Need

  • A tape measure
  • Thick fabric such as denim
  • Fabric scissors
  • Sewing machine
  • Tailor's chalk
  • Pins
  • Umanori hakama pattern
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Instructions

    • 1

      Measure the width of your hips with a tape measure. Multiply the amount by four and write it down, this will be the length of the fabric you need. Measure the distance from your waist to your ankles and add 12 inches onto that to get the width of the fabric. The extra 12 inches is there to take into account the various hems and ties the hakama will require. Cut your fabric to these dimensions.

    • 2

      Cut three strips, 4-inches wide, along the length of the fabric for the hakama ties. Sew one strip to another to create a long strip and fold it in half, sewing along its length to make a hoop. Do the same thing with the short strip. Take the remaining fabric and fold it in half along its width. Cut along this fold to create two pieces of fabric.

    • 3

      Fold each of these pieces in half along their length and place the two pieces on top of one another. Measure six to 10 inches down the material and mark a J-shaped curve with tailor's chalk. Cut this out on both pieces of cloth and lay them flat next to each other. The J-shape forms a U in both pant legs to will serve as the crotch.

    • 4

      Slot the two pant legs together and sew up the outside of the legs to 10 to 12 inches from the top. Turn the material inside out so the sewing is now on the inside and make four pleats in the front of the material and two in the back, pinning them to hold them in place. Sew a hem onto the triangular section formed where the front and back come together.

    • 5

      Sew a straight line one inch down from the top of the hakama at the front and back to hold the pleats in place and then remove the pins. Lay the long strip of fabric against the top of the pleats on the front of the hakama and line it up so the strip is centered. Sew it in place and then do the same for the shorter strip, this time on the back of the Hakama. The ends of these strips tie the completed hakama tight.