How to Make a Makiwara

Although less common today, the makiwara has been a favorite training tool of karate practitioners for decades. Repeated striking of this padded post is said to not only toughen the fists but also to help the striker develop a feeling of focus in his punches. The literal meaning of the Japanese name is "roll of straw," referring to the straw that traditionally was rolled around the top part of the post where the fist made contact. Most modern makiwara use foam or rubber padding instead, but the principle remains the same.

Things You'll Need

  • One 7-foot-long wooden post, 4 inches by 4 inches (knot-free with grain parallel to long side)
  • Two 12-inch long wooden boards, 2 inches by 4 inches
  • Straight edge
  • Pencil
  • Screws
  • Screwdriver
  • Electric table saw
  • Shovel or post hole digger
  • Wood sealant or varnish
  • Cement, concrete or rocks
  • Dense foam padding
  • Cloth tape
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Instructions

  1. Making a Makiwara

    • 1

      Cut the post on a diagonal line lengthwise so one end of the post remains 4 inches square and the other end is 1/2 to 3/4 inches thick. This will result in one uncut, straight lengthwise edge and one cut, sloped edge on the opposite side. Draw the cutting line first using a straight edge and pencil.

    • 2

      Attach the two boards to the post using two screws per board. The boards will be attached sideways to the post, at right angles, similar to a letter "T" shape. One board will be positioned 8 inches from the 4-inch-square end, attached to the uncut, straight lengthwise edge. The second board will be positioned 30 inches from this same end, but on the opposite, sloped edge.

    • 3

      Paint the boards and post with sealant, varnish or preservative of your choice to prevent rotting and prolong the life of the makiwara.

    • 4

      Find a suitable outside location and dig a hole approximately 3 feet deep, such that when the 4-inch-square end of the post is inserted, the upper board (the one 30 inches from the end) is at least 6 inches below ground. This hole also must be wide enough to accommodate inserting the two sideways 12-inch boards.

    • 5

      Insert the post into the hole, 4-inch-square end down, and ensure it is standing straight up. The uncut, lengthwise surface of the post is the surface that will be used for striking, so this side should be positioned so you can conveniently assume a karate stance in front of it.

    • 6

      Keep the post upright and backfill the hole with materials that will make a solid base that will not move after repeated strikes to the post. Suitable materials include concrete/cement, or a combination of rocks, sand and gravel, well tamped down.

    • 7

      Cut a 2-inch-thick square of dense foam padding. The padding should be 6 to 8 inches high and as wide as the post. Attach it at the top of the tapered end of the post to the flat, lengthwise edge. Use liberal amounts of cloth tape to hold it in place. This is the striking surface. To use the post, assume a karate stance in front of the padded side and strike the pad. The board should flex back slightly with each blow.