How to Build a Cedar Epoxy Canoe

If you plan to build a cedar epoxy (technically a cedar strip epoxy or CSE) canoe, you will make a serious investment in tools, forms and materials. A CSE canoe is simpler to make than traditional cedar strip canoes. CSEs lack the intricate framing and ribwork of the all-wood models. Instead the epoxy-based fiberglass coating holds the strips together. CSE canoes are lightweight and less expansive than other cedar canoes without losing any of their inherent beauty.

Things You'll Need

  • Canoe Plans
  • Three 1-inch plywood sheets for the forms
  • 8 12 foot long 2 by 4s
  • 3-inch screws -- 2 pounds
  • Sufficient cedar strips to cover the hull -- 62 board feet for a 17 foot long canoe
  • Ash or other hardwood 1 x 2 inch planks for thwarts
  • Two ash plankz
  • Two 8 inches wide -- long enough for two 14 to 18 inch long rectangular seat bottoms and two triangular deck plates.
  • Cove molding for Gunwales and the stem and stern.
  • Epoxy fiberglass resin
  • Enough six ounce E-glass Fiberglass fabric - Plain Weave to cover the entire hull inside and out, preferably with single pieces
  • Fiberglass spreader
  • Mixing bucket and stirring stick
  • Drill and bit set
  • Saber saw
  • Router and cove bits
  • Orbital sander
  • Table saw
  • Respirator
  • Tape measure and chalk line
  • Range of sandpaper grades fine to coarse
  • Steel wool fine to extra fine
  • 1/32 inch milled glass putty filler
  • Rubber mallet
  • 30 small clamps
Show More

Instructions

  1. Steps in Assembling a Cedar Strip Canoe

    • 1

      Find or purchase a pattern for the form from a canoe plan supplier. Cut a set of flat boards or station molds according to the pattern from plywood. The boards are nailed to 2 by 4's to support them vertically. They should be evenly spaced about 18 inches apart; a total of 11 molds starting with a narrow and deep form at the stem of the boat. Station molds gradually widen to the center of the canoe then grow progressively narrower toward the stern. Add two lengthwise bow and stern forms to shape the ends.

    • 2

      Use 1/4 inch thick by 3/4 inch wide cedar strips. They can be purchased or ripped from sheets or 1/4 inch thick cedar boards. Bead and cove the edges with a router so the strips overlap to widen the area to be glued and strengthen the joints.

    • 3

      Begin at one end and nail the first strip to the mold at the bottom running lengthwise from form to form. Predrill the nail holes to prevent splitting. Nail the strips with thin finish nails, but do not drive them all the way in so you can pull them out later. The strips will bend without steaming. When you finish the first row, start the second. Glue the edges together with waterproof wood glue. Tap them tight together before tacking the strip to the form. Cut the strips so they end on a form mold. Vary the lengths so the strip ends do not come together side by side.

    • 4

      Wipe away the excess glue as you work up the hull. As you near the top you will have to trim the ends of the strips where they meet at the keel. The final row of strips will be cut in elongated strips angled at the end. The final piece will be an elongated football shape at the center of the bottom of the boat.

    • 5

      Once all the strips are in place, steam and bend a pair of cove moldings around each end, glue in place and clamp till the glue sets and cures. Remove all the nails. Sand the outside until the hull is smooth. Apply wood filler to any cracks or low spots. Next apply two coats of epoxy over the entire hull to seal it.

    • 6

      Cut a sheet of six ounce fiberglass cloth large enough to cover the entire hull. Trim the cloth to fit over the curve of the bow and stern. Stretch the cloth over the hull and lightly clamp in place around the edges and ends. Work from one end to the other a section at a time. Paint the epoxy resin section by section, then lay the fiberglass cloth over it. Paint over the fiberglass cloth with epoxy resin until all the white disappears and no bubbles remain. Use the fiberglass spreader to press down the cloth so that it laminates to the hull. Keep working till you finish the entire outer hull and ends. Do not let any section dry before you start the next section. When you finish the fiberglassing, it will be clear.

    • 7

      Lift the hull off of the mold. Turn it over and screw the gunwale moldings in place. Install the outside gunwales. Lift the hull from the molds then clean, sand and fiberglass the inside of the hull. Install the inner gunwales, screwing them in place.

    • 8

      Sand the inside of the hull, apply wood filler to any cracks, knots or nail holes in the hull. Cut a piece of the six ounce fiberglass and lay it inside the hull in the same way you laid the outside. Sand smooth with fine sandpaper. The two layers of fiberglass will strengthen the hull.

    • 9

      Make thwarts according to the pattern that comes with your plans and the seat and seat supports. Sand, stain and varnish the seats and thwarts, then install them in the proper places. Next cut and route the edges of the triangular deck plates and install them over the bow and stern gunwales. Once everything is put together, apply three thin coats of marine spar varnish or polyurethane clearcoat to the entire boat.