How to Build Canoe Seats

If you've got an old canoe that has thwarts and no seats, canoeing might not be as enjoyable as it could be. Relief can be had for a few dollars and a little time by building canoe seats.

Things You'll Need

  • Wooden hardwood dowels longer than your canoe is wide (two per seat and four if you're making two seats)
  • Drill and 1/4 inch bit
  • 14 inch x 2 inch steel round-headed or lag screws (four to eight)
  • Roll of replacement lawn chair webbing
  • Staple gun and 5/16 inch staples
  • Butyl rubber sealant
  • Epoxy glue
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Instructions

    • 1

      Measure and mark the inside of your canoe at the points where the wooden dowels will attach to the hull. The dowels will be 1 foot apart and about 2 to 4 inches below the top of the gunwales depending on the canoe. Different canoes have taller or shorter sides, so you'll have to figure where to set the wooden dowels so the seat will be low enough for good stability. The rear seat will be positioned closer to the stern of the boat so there is knee room in front of the seat. For the same reason the front seat will be farther away from the bow so the paddler will have adequate leg room.

    • 2

      Drill four 1/4 inch holes in the hull where the dowels will meet the hull.

    • 3

      Measure between the holes and cut the dowels to the correct length so that they fit snugly but do not distort the hull outward.

    • 4

      Predrill the holes in the end of the dowels for the 1/4 inch screws. Use a bit that is slightly smaller than the width of the screws so that the screw will bite into the wood and hold. For strength, fill the hole with epoxy cement before you attach the screws. Put butyl rubber sealant between the dowel end and the hull. Push the screw through the hull into the hole in the end of the dowel and tighten. Tighten all four screws into the ends of the dowels.

    • 5

      Fold the end of the webbing into point and fold over the tip. Staple the folded strengthened end underneath the right front dowel.

    • 6

      Bring the web up and over the tops of the dowels. Continue wrapping the dowels tightly, overlapping the webbing and working your way from right to left and then back again.

    • 7

      Repeat until you are satisfied with the strength of the seat. Fold the end again as shown and staple underneath the dowel. To keep the seat from shifting you might want to space some staples along the dowels underneath the seat so that the straps don't slide laterally when you sit on them. Be sure the staples are far enough under that they don't chafe your skin. Too many staples can weaken the web.

    • 8

      An alternative, slightly more complicated but sturdier way to lay out the webbing is to lay a series of web straps, cutting and fastening the web straps at either end with staples as described above. Lay the straps diagonally at a slight angle from right to left. Then weave a second row diagonally from left to right at the opposite angle, making a series of X's. You might have to experiment, but it's not to hard to figure out a weave that works for you and makes a comfortable seat.

      Another seat bottom can be made by stitching a thick piece of canvas around both dowels. I've also seen a slat bottom created by screwing thin wooden slats on top of the dowels or wooden 2 x 2 's used in place of dowels. Once you have the principle, the variety of solutions you'll come up with is endless.