How to Attach Climbing Anchors

Set the gear in the rock. An anchor ideally contains three pieces of removable gear, such as stoppers or camming units. Each of the three pieces must stand in solid and clean rock. The gear must be close enough to each other that the sling or cordelette, when later added to the anchor, forms an acute angle at its central point. According to Cox and Fulsaas, the nearer this angle is to zero degrees, the safer.

Ensure that each unit remains fixed in the rock when subjected to downward, outward and upward pull. Though a belayer sitting at this anchor only subjects it to downward and slightly outward forces, a climber falling from above this point (on the next pitch of the route) pulls the belayer and the anchor upward. Thus, all gear must be set to resist multiple directions of force. Camming units provides the best multidirectional protection, as they stay fixed in any parallel-sided crack, regardless of the angle of tension. However, a stopper also resists multiple directions of force when set intelligently and in a fissure with constrictions at its top, bottom and outer edges. Test each piece of gear with forceful downward, outward and upward tugs.

Add a looped cordelette or sling to the anchor. Attach one carabiner to each piece of gear. Clip the cordelette into each of the carabiners. Use one hand to hold the lower loop of cordelette. With the other, put one finger on each of the two upper cordelette sections between each carabiner. Draw the two bites of upper cordelette downward, so that a bite forms around each of the three pieces of gear. The bottom loop, which should resemble a "U", rises as you do this. The upper section of cordellete should now resemble a "W", with its two points lower points meeting up with the bottom of the "U".

Work the cordelette until every strand holds approximately the same tension. This is called equalization and ensures that each piece of gear contributes to the anchor's workload. Be sure all lengths of cordelette are pointed primarily downward, and all angles between the bottom loops are acute; excessively wide angles create undue strain on the anchor, making it vulnerable to failure. The angle between the outermost strands of cordelette must always be smaller than 90 degrees; anything greater multiplies the force on each piece of gear.

Tie the cordelette bites into a unified knot. Keeping tension on each loop, bring them all together. Using one finger to hold them together evenly, tie these bites into one knot. A figure eight knot works best for an anchor, as it remains fixed and weight-bearing on all points, even with the failure of one or even two pieces of gear. Once the figure eight is tied and dressed, you have three even bites of cordelette at its bottom end. Clip the locking carabiner to these three loops; this is the finished anchor.