How to Do Multi-Pitch Climbs

Multi-pitch climbs are both challenging and rewarding. Because of the exposure factor and the difficulty of getting back off the rock if you find yourself in trouble, you should select party members carefully. Good planning and practice are the keys to successful multi-pitch climbs.

Things You'll Need

  • Belay devices & descenders
  • Carabiners
  • Harnesses
  • Helmets
  • Protection
  • Climbing ropes
  • Chalk bags
  • Water and snacks
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Instructions

    • 1

      Choose party members who climb one grade above the most difficult pitch on your route. For a multi-pitch route including 5.9 segments, everyone should be comfortable climbing 5.10.

    • 2

      Practice outdoor single-pitch climbs, with the lead placing protection and other climbers cleaning as they climb. Top rope and climbing wall practice don't teach you how to clean pitches.

    • 3

      Bring extra gear, including a backup rope and extra protection. You will also need one to two liters of water per hour per party member, a lightweight first aid kit, flashlight and snacks.

    • 4

      Agree on all calls and nonverbal signals before you start climbing. If one climber yells "slack!" to indicate pull up the slack, and the belayer interprets it as "give more slack," you will have problems.

    The Climb

    • 5

      Read up on the climb before you go and observe the area carefully with binoculars to make sure you are on the right route. Don't skip belay stations. If you see a good ledge, stop and switch climbers. Don't push on and risk running out of rope.

    • 6

      Switch leads for every pitch if both climbers are equally skilled. The first lead climbs and places protection, then belays the second. The second cleans the pitch. At this point, the second is already on belay and has all the protection, and can simply continue up as leader for the next pitch.

    • 7

      Plan your descent carefully. Walk off if you can. Most deaths on multi-pitch climbs occur while rappelling. Place anchors and adjust harnesses carefully. Have your most skilled climber belay the rest of the party as they rappel down, and go last, after the anchors have been well-tested.