How to Setup a Top Rope Belay

Top roping is a popular form of rock climbing. Though great for beginners, it is practiced by just about anyone who considers themselves a climber. When top roping, the rope hangs down from the top of the cliff. The climber is tied into one end of the rope and the belayer is attached to the other end. As the climber climbs, the belayer takes in slack to prevent the climber from falling. Once at the top, the climber is lowered back down. A top rope belay must be set up and executed properly to ensure the safety of both the climber and the belayer.

Things You'll Need

  • Climbing rope
  • Climbing harness
  • Belay device
  • 2 Locking carabiners
  • Loop of webbing or cordelette
  • Belay gloves
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Instructions

  1. Setting Up a Toprope

    • 1

      Set up your rope on the cliff where you intend to climb. This will either require someone to lead climb the climb first, if the route is bolted, or having someone hike to the top of the cliff and set up the rope.

    • 2

      Make sure the two strands of rope are not twisted around each other. If you can see the top of the climb, you should be able to easily see if they are. The climber should take one strand of rope and the belayer the other.

    • 3

      Tie in to the rope if you are the climber. Use a re-traced figure 8 knot to tie the rope to the belay loop on the front of your harness.

    • 4

      Run the other strand of rope through your belay device if you are a belayer. If you are using an ATC belay device, shove a bight of rope through one hole of the device. Clip a locking carabiner through both this bight of rope and the black loop on the bottom of the ATC.

    • 5

      Clip the belay device to your harness. Orient the ATC so that the brake strand points toward the ground. Clip the locking carabiner to the belay loop on the front of your harness and lock it.

    Creating a Belay Anchor

    • 6
      Belayer being lifted off the ground by a climber.

      Consider your situation before you start climbingand decide if the belayer should be anchored. A belay anchor prevents the belayer from getting pulled off the ground or swung into the cliff. An anchor may be necessary if the climber weighs significantly more than the belayer. Also, if you are belaying at the edge of a cliff or another dangerous location an anchor is a good idea.

    • 7

      Find an object to anchor yourself to. A tree or heavy rock located near the bottom of the climb is the best choice for a belay anchor. If nothing of the sort is available, you can have another person hold onto the back of the belayer's harness as a backup.

    • 8

      Girth hitch your extra webbing or cordelette around the anchor point.

    • 9

      Clip the webbing or cordelette to the belay loop on your harness using a locking carabiner. Clip this carabiner under the one that is attached to your ATC so that it doesn't get in the way of your belaying. Immediately lock the carabiner.

    • 10

      Place the anchor rope between your legs rather than to one side or the other. Stand so the anchor rope is taut, not loose. This will keep you from getting jerked forward.

    • 11

      Check every part of your system. Make sure all carabiners are locked. Check the climber's knots. Make sure both of your harnesses are properly secured. Once you have checked each other thoroughly, you can let the climber begin.