How to Build a Klondike Sled
Things You'll Need
- Skis
- Bindings( 2x4) - 4
- Crossbars -3
- Floorboards (1x2) - 10
- Uprights - 2
- Nylon webbing
Instructions
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The Klondike Sled
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1
Take a pair of used skis that are at least 185 cm long for the base of your sled. For the bindings you need to use 2"x4" boards that are 20cm long with 10x4 cm cut out of the bottom and 5 cm by 7mm cut out of the top. These are screwed to the front and rear of each ski with 6 cm or longer screws. The screws must have flat heads and be counter sunk. The front bindings have to be angled at 2 cm-wide slot cut in the front to accommodate the diagonal. Additional wood can be lashed or screwed onto the bindings to make them taller if needed.
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2
Cut 5cm wide notches out of the 2"x2" boards that make the crossbars. These need to be 4 cm from each end of the board. Two of the crossbars are 60 cm long and are lashed to the bindings for the support of the floor. The third is the push bar and is lashed to the uprights.
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3
Weave nylon webbing back and forth across the ten 1"x2" floorboards to make it very sturdy. There needs to be three lashings which should use about 2m of nylon weave. The flooring will be flexible until it is lashed down. The two outside floorboards each need to eyes to hold the ropes for the sides. They should be about 12cm apart form each other. There should be 8 eyes, 12 cm apart, starting 8 cm from the rear end of the board.
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4
Rest the two left and right uprights on the skis and lash them to the back of the rear bindings. Choose the height so that it is comfortable for the person who will be using the sled. The two eyes on the inside are for a rear triangular brace of ropes. These are 45 cm and 85 cm from the bottom of the upright. On the front, there are six eyes, spaced 10 cm apart, starting 20 cm from the bottom of the upright. These eyes are for the side and back mesh. The uprights come in left and right versions. The only difference is the location of the inside eyes and the notches for the diagonals.
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5
Fit the diagonal 2(1"x2") boards into the 6cm notch that is 7cm from the bottom on the front right binding. Lash here with a shear lashing. There is a 5 cm wide angled notch 4 cm from the top on the side of the board. This fits the notch on the upright and is lashed with a square or diagonal lashing. Along the top edge, there are 5 mm deep nicks to accommodate the ropes for the sides. These are 8 cm apart starting 20 cm from the top end.
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