How to Make a Recurve Bow From 2-by-4
Things You'll Need
- Electric saw
- Pencil
- Measuring tape
- Rasp
- File
- Wooden board, approximately 2 feet wide by 4 feet high
- Large pot
- Stove
- Clamps
- Sandpaper
- Nylon bow string
Instructions
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1
Trim the 2-by-4 to 5 1/2 feet long using the electric saw. Also cut 1 inch off the long edge of the board so that instead of a 2-by-4, you have a 2-by-3.
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2
Place the new board on a firm surface with the 3-inch side facing up. Mark an "X" in the exact center of the board with the pencil. Measure the width of your palm and round up to the nearest inch. Divide this number by two. Mark that number of inches both above and below the "X" to show where the grip of your bow will be. For example, if your hand is 4 inches wide, you will mark 2 inches above and below the "X," creating a grip that is 4 inches high.
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3
Begin shaping your bow using the rasp and file. You can use any technique you're comfortable with as long as you end up with the appropriate dimensions. The width of your bow should be 2 1/2 inches at the grip and taper to a half-inch at either end. The bow should also be 5/8 of an inch thick at the grip and taper to 3/8 of an inch thick at either end. It's important to keep both limbs of the bow as even as possible on either side of the grip. Frequently check the profile of your bow for imperfections and do what you can to correct these imperfections using the file and rasp.
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4
Shape the grip of the bow so that it is comfortable to handle using the file. The rasp may be too harsh for this delicate task.
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5
Cut a curve into the board that measures 2 feet wide by 4 feet high. The curve must extend the entire width and height of the board and should be as even as possible. If it looks uneven, use the file to help even it out.
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6
Fill the pot with water and bring it to a boil on the stove. Submerge half the bow in the boiling water for three to four hours. Add water frequently to avoid having the pot boil dry. The boiling water should make the wood pliable. If the wood is still stiff, leave the bow in the water for up to two additional hours.
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7
Remove the bow from the water and immediately clamp in place along the curve you cut in the wooden board. As it is very difficult to correct the curve once the wood is set, make sure you clamped the board in the correct position the first time. The finished bow should have identical limbs, both of which curve from the grip, away from you, and loop gently back toward you. Once the bow is clamped in the correct position, leave it there for two or three days, possibly longer. The wood must be entirely dry and set before the clamps are removed.
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8
Repeat Step 6 and Step 7 for the other limb of the bow. The finished bow form should look a little like half of the number "8" with more gentle curve toward the grip.
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9
Use the file to carve one slit in each end of the bow for nocks. Nocks are the spots where the bow string is secured. The nocks should be approximately 1 inch deep.
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10
Use the sandpaper to smooth the entire bow. This will help prevent slivers while the bow is in use.
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11
Secure one end of the nylon bow string to one nock. Stretch the bow string down to the second nock, pulling the string taunt enough to bend the bow slightly. Tie the bow string off to the second nock and experiment with the tension. You will likely have to play with the tension a little to get it just right. Once you find a comfortable tension, secure the bow string firmly.
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