DIY Diving Board

Building a quality diving board requires more effort than putting a board over the water and finding something to hold it in place. A simple plank diving board will have trouble holding up under the strain of repeated use. Over time, the board will begin to rot and fall apart. Creativity and craftsmanship are required to build a diving board that can withstand the pressures of daily use, resist the weathering caused by a pool environment and retain the elasticity required for repeated strong dives.

Things You'll Need

  • Measuring tape
  • Pencil
  • 6 2-by-6 inch treated soft wood lumber, 14 feet long
  • Table saw
  • Resorcinol or phenol-resorcinol glue
  • Clamps
  • Rubber matting
  • Rubber-based adhesive
  • 3/4-by-3 inch cleat
  • Screws
  • Drill
  • Rolling pin
  • 2 2-by-4 inch treated lumber, 9 feet 6 inches long
  • 2 2-by-4 inch treated lumber, 20 inches long
  • Circular saw
  • Chisel
  • Hammer
  • 2-inch diameter pipe, 24-inches long
  • Pipe caps
  • Carriage bolts
  • Strap iron
  • 2 Wrenches
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Instructions

    • 1

      Cut the 2-by-6-inch boards diagonally down their length with a table saw so that one end is three inches wide and the other end is 1 3/8 inches wide. If properly done, each board can be cut into two boards. In total, twelve cut pieces are needed.

    • 2

      Apply resorcinol or phenol-resorcinol glue to the side of one board and lay another board against it so the glue is sandwiched between the boards. Make sure the side of the board is completely covered with glue. Clamp the entire length of the boards together with clamps that are able to exert at least 150 pounds of pressure per square inch, which could be described as "snug." Apply clamps to the top and bottom surfaces as well, to prevent bowing or misalignment. Repeat the process until all twelve boards have been laminated together.

    • 3

      Apply rubber-based adhesive to the length of the newly created board along the top, bottom and sides. Lay the rubber matting on the top of the board and smooth it with a rolling pin or similar device. Tuck the sides down carefully and fold the matting under the board and smooth the bottom. At the end of the board that is 1 3/8 inches thick, tuck the end of the rubber matting against the underside and affix the cleat with screws to hold the end of the mat in place.

    • 4

      Six inches from the end of the board that is three inches thick, use the circular saw to create a groove two inches wide and one inch deep on the angled side of the board. Clean out any bumps or notches with a hammer and chisel.

    • 5

      Position the strap irons so the outside edge of the strap iron is three inches from the outside edge of the board and the hump in the iron is directly over the groove. Mark the spots for the bolt holes in the strap iron. Remove the strap iron and drill holes completely through the board.

    • 6

      Lay the pipe inside the groove with an equal amount extending from either end. Place the strap iron back in position over the pipe. Insert bolts through the board with the head end of the bolt on the top of the board and the threaded end protruding through the strap iron. Thread nuts onto the ends of the bolts and tighten them with the wrenches until the head of the bolt countersinks and becomes flush with the top edge of the board.

    • 7

      Drill a hole in both 2-by-4-inch boards. The hole should be two inches in diameter and centered on the wide side of the board, six inches from the end. Place a 2-by-4 on either side of the board and slide the pipe on the board through the hole in the 2-by-4. Cover the end of the board with a pipe cap. Tighten the pipe caps down with a wrench.

    • 8

      Measure twenty inches from both ends of the 2-by-4-inch boards. Place a 20-inch 2-by-4 between the two long boards and screw them firmly in place.