How to Make a Fencing Jacket

Designing and making a fencing jacket requires a number of considerations with regard to size, mobility and durability, but most importantly, it must include safety precautions. Include padding or chest protectors in your sketch, an accurate chest measurement, as well as the zipper position. The designer must also include reinforced stitching as part of the overall design. The jacket seams are subject to tearing and opening from the added stress created from stretching. Choosing an appropriate fabric for the shell and lining is an essential component, such as selecting a shell's surface which does not snag to avoid catching points on the jacket during fencing practices or competitions.

Things You'll Need

  • Fabric (your choice: 2 to 3 yards)
  • Lining (your choice: 2 to 3 yards)
  • Flexible tape measure
  • Pattern paper
  • Drafting pencils
  • Padding (your weight choice)
  • Plastic chest protector (optional)
  • Buckle
  • D-ring
  • Velcro
  • Straight pins
  • Tailor's chalk
  • Paper scissors
  • Fabric scissors
  • Sewing machine
  • Iron
  • Heavy duty zipper
  • Zipper foot attachment
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Instructions

  1. Pattern Prep

    • 1

      Choose your fencing jacket fabric such as a synthetic or cotton shell. Keep your range of motion in mind when selecting your fabric. Though cotton shells last longer and are inexpensive, the fabric thickness is bulky. Synthetic nylon shells are expensive; however the fabric has more stretch and is a lighter weight. Linings are generally made of microfiber for comfort and ease.

    • 2

      Measure your chest area with a flexible tape measure. Fencing jackets are sold by this measurement which will balance the rest of the silhouette.

    • 3

      Draft your fencing jacket pattern on pattern paper using your drafting pencils. Make sure you choose your zipper position, which is usually at the back or at the sides. It is important to set the zipper in the opposite location to your fencing arm. Certain manufacturers place the side zippers at the side front view for easy access.

      It is also important to draft a pattern which will also include padding ease, which will increase the outer shell pattern. As an alternative, an inner chest pocket pattern is made to slide in the plastic chest protector and avoid the padded altered pattern.

    • 4

      Include in your pattern the exact position for your buckle, d-ring, straps as well as any Velcro insert positions. The buckles and d-ring, which are generally heavy cast plastic, are usually anchored to the jacket with a heavy strap-like piece of woven fabric stitched to the jacket. Both ends have a connecting strap. One is looped around the buckle, another around the ring and attached to the jacket. Position these components in the area providing most comfort during fencing.

    • 5

      Draft your fencing jacket lining pattern on pattern paper as well. The lining pattern must include underarm reinforcements for safety.

    • 6

      Cut out your patterns with your paper scissors and pin it to your outer and inner shell fabric with straight pins. Use tailor's chalk to transfer all special insert markings such as buckle and d-ring position as well as padding inserts to avoid stitching confusion.

    • 7

      Cut out your fabric parts with fabric scissors to ensure smooth edges.

    Jacket

    • 8

      Machine stitch the outer and lining shells separately. Make sure you select reinforced stitching such as a double needle topstitch with an overlock feature.

    • 9

      Try on the two layers for fit and make any necessary adjustments on your dress form. It is also important to insert the protective padding or chest inserts to ensure proper fit.

    • 10

      Turn the layers inside out and pin together. Leave a 3- to 4-inch bottom opening. Make sure you insert the extra features such as the buckle and d-ring prior to stitching the shells together.

    • 11

      Machine stitch the shells together using reinforced stitches as in section 2, step 1. The raw seams will be visible. Bear in mind that the zipper placket will remain open to insert the zipper in a later step. Cut away loose threads with your scissors.

    • 12

      Turn the jacket inside out, inserting the lining into the outer shell. The raw seams will be hidden for a clean finish.

    • 13

      Turn your bottom opening edges in and lightly iron. Stitch the opening closed.

    • 14

      Insert a heavy-duty zipper in the zipper placket area ensuring there is sufficient space for the placket lip to stitch the reinforced double needle topstitch. The length will be determined by your jacket style. Make sure you change your machine's straight stitch foot to the zipper foot.