How to Construct a Racquetball Court
Things You'll Need
- Floor joists
- Screws
- Drill driver
- Tape measure
- Floor, 40 feet by 20 feet
- Ladder
- Wall joists
- 2 walls, 40 feet by 20 feet
- 1 wall, 20 feet by 20 feet
- 1 wall, 20 feet by at least 12 and not more than 20 feet
- Door, maximum size 3.5 feet wide by 7 feet high
- Ceiling, 40 feet by 20 feet
- Lighting, at least 100 foot candle
- Heat and air ducts
- Red tape, 1 1/2 inches wide
- Painter’s masking tape
- Red enamel paint and small roller
Instructions
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Construction
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1
Frame the 40-foot by 20-foot floor by arranging joists in a lattice pattern. Lay the floor on the lattice and secure it with screws and drill driver. The floor must be hard, smooth, sanded and finished with polyurethane.
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2
Erect vertical joists and secure them to the floor joists along each side of the floor with four screws at each junction. Brace the vertical joists with horizontal girders five feet apart.
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3
Attach the interior walls, securing them to each joist with screws. The back wall must be at least 12 feet tall but optionally may have an open area above 12 feet to allow for spectator viewing or cameras.
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4
Attach the ceiling and secure it to the walls with screws into each joist. The height above floor level must be not less than 20 feet.
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5
Install the door in the center of the back wall to open into the court. It must become a playable surface flush with the wall when closed.
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6
Install ceiling lighting that's flush with playable surfaces. It should evenly and uniformly light the walls and entire court with at least 100 foot candle power, provide a shadow-free court and have rebound quality similar to the ceiling.
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7
Locate the heating and air ducts in the ceiling at least 24 feet back from the front wall.
Required Markings
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8
Divide the floor into two 20-foot by 20-foot areas by taping a straight red line across the court 20 feet from either end to mark the center line of the court, called the short line. The area under all the red tape markings will later be painted red.
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9
Mark the service line parallel with and five feet in front of the short line and 15 feet from the front wall with red tape.
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10
Mark the receiving line parallel with and five feet behind the short line and 15 feet from the back wall with red tape. The receiving line is a broken or dashed line beginning and ending with 21 inches of solid line extending from each side wall. Connect these two solid sections of line with a series of alternating six-inch spaces and six-inch line segments. The area between the receiving line and the short line defines the safety zone.
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11
Create a service zone with red tape by connecting the short line and the service line with perpendicular lines at 18 inches and 36 inches from each side wall.
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12
Place painter’s masking tape on each side of every red taped line to create a smooth, straight painting edge. Remove the red tape and use the small roller to paint all line markings red between the rows of painter’s tape. Allow to dry thoroughly. Remove the painter’s tape.
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