How to Make a Boat Anchor

Near its coast, the bottom of the Mediterranean Sea is littered with stones that each have a single hole in them; these were the anchors used by the ancient Greeks and Romans, and they served their purpose well. While today's recreational boats are not likely to carry a stone anchor, sailing on a boat without an anchor can be as unsafe as driving a car with no brakes. For the do-it-yourself boater, an anchor can be as simple as a rope tied to a cinder block (for a small skiff) or as elaborate as a Navy-style fluke anchor for larger boats.

Things You'll Need

  • MIG or TIG welding machine
  • Welding helmet
  • Welding gloves
  • Chop saw or band saw to cut aluminum sheeting
  • 3/16" x 18" x 18" corrosion-resistant sheet aluminum
  • 3/16" x 1-1/2" x 36" corrosion-resistant aluminum square tubing
  • 2" O.D. corrosion-resistant aluminum ring
  • 3/4" x 36" corrosion-resistant aluminum round stock
  • 1/2" x 24" corrosion-resistant aluminum square stock
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Instructions

  1. How to Make a Boat Anchor

    • 1

      Cut two triangles, each 12" by 18", from the 3/16" x 18" x 18" sheet aluminum; cut 1/2" square stock into two 10" lengths and weld to the center of the triangles as shown. The triangles form the flukes (#3 on the Concept Drawing) of the anchor, and the square stock (#5 on the Concept Drawing) acts as reinforcement for the flukes.

    • 2

      Weld the 3/4" x 36" round stock to the bottom of the 1-1/2" x 36" square tubing, which will serve as the anchor shank, as shown in the Concept Drawing. This forms the crossbar, which will cause the anchor to tip over when it reaches the bottom, facilitating the placement of the flukes in the seabed and enabling their removal when the anchor is raised.

    • 3

      Weld the 2" ring to the opposite end of the 1-1/2" square tubing from the crossbar. Part of the ring will fit down into the tubing to allow for a stronger weld. This forms the anchor ring, where the anchor "rode" (chain or rope) will be attached to the anchor.

    • 4

      Weld the flukes to both the square tubing (the anchor shank) and the crossbar as shown in the illustration. The flukes should join the stock at an angle of 40 degrees or less; if the flukes have a greater angle, they will be difficult to remove from the seabed when raising the anchor.