How to Make a Bent Shaft Canoe Paddle

Building your own canoe paddle has always conferred bragging rights on seasoned canoers. With the advent of the new bent-shaft paddles, some of us have shied away from attempting one. It turns out, however, that the process isn't that tough. If you can build a straight-shaft paddle, you can build a bent-shaft paddle.

Things You'll Need

  • 2 varieties of hardwood boards (1 1/4 inches thick and up to 6 inches wide) Gorilla Glue Sander and course, medium and fine sandpaper. Jig or band-saw Jointer or hand-plane Rasp or surform tool Cabinet scraper Oil and varnish
Show More

Instructions

  1. Building the shaft

    • 1

      Cut a 2-by-2 inch board to the length you have selected for your blade. Choose a paddle you are comfortable paddling with, and measure the shaft from below the throat to the grip. Cut it a little long to allow for the bend. You can always trim it later, but you can't make it longer. Cut two more pieces of 2-by-2 boards 4 inches long.

    • 2

      Glue the grip pieces to either side of the top of the shaft. Glue with Gorilla Glue and bind together with bungee cords or furniture clamps until dry.

    • 3

      Trim the grip into a triangular shape with a jig or sabre saw. Use a plane or rasp to shape the grip.

    • 4

      Round the the edges of the shaft. You can trim the edges to make it roughly octagonal in shape first and then sand it smooth. Leave about the last 4 to 6 inches squared for attaching to the blade.

    • 5

      Trim the strip of wood you chose for the center strip of the blade to the same width as the squared end of the paddle shaft (the opposite end from the grip).

    Buidling and Attaching the Blade to the Shaft

    • 6

      Cut the boards you will be using for the blade into identical lengths. Leave about 3 inches 1 1/2 inches thick, and plane or trim the rest down to 3/4 inch or less. Set the shoulder where the thick part of the board meets the thin part at the same angle at which you plan to set your blade. A 14-degree angle is common. Cut off the thick part of the center board at the same angle (14 degrees here) beginning at the point where the thick shoulder meets the think blade. The cut angle extends from the shoulder point downward angling toward the tip of the blade.

    • 7

      Line up the blade strips as shown, apply Gorilla Glue. Clamp the strips or bungee them together.

    • 8

      Insert the squared end of the shaft into the angle above the center strip and between the side strips at the angle you've chosen (see picture). Do this before the glue joining the blade segments is set so you can move the shaft to get the best fit. As Gorilla Glue sets, it will expand, so scrape the excess off as it pushes out from between the joined wood strips.

    • 9

      Clamp the entire blade and shaft assembly together, and allow to set overnight. Then, when the blade is set, mark the shape of your paddle on the blade in pencil before cutting.

    • 10

      Cut out the shape of the paddle with the jig or sabre saw, then saw off the excess end of the shaft that protrudes from the back of the blade. Use the rasp and plane to thin the blade and shape the throat and shoulder where the shaft attaches to the blade. Take your time. Start with the jig saw, then use the plane, rasp and finally, the sander, finishing with a careful hand sanding of the finished blade.

    • 11

      Apply stain and marine spar varnish for a simple, traditional finish. Take your time and apply thin layers, rubbing the entire paddle down with steel wool between coats. If you want to add strength, you can fiberglass the entire blade when you're done or just the tip to protect it.