How to Build Wood Kayak Paddles

Died-in-the-wool kayakers know they haven't really mastered the craft until they build a wood kayak paddle with their own hands. Nothing beats the feel of a wood paddle cutting quietly into the glassy surface of a quiet lake in the early dawn. While a wooden paddle may be more vulnerable in a white water rock garden than an aluminum or composite paddle, but you can't beat one for look and feel, especially when you've crafted it yourself.

Things You'll Need

  • 1 shaft, 10-foot long, 2 by 2 inches, of ash, hickory or other suitable hardwood,
  • 2 or 3 hardwood 1/2 inch by 8 inch by 3-foot long planks
  • Bungee cords or furniture clamps
  • Gorilla Glue or other strong epoxy wood glue
  • Saber saw
  • Drawknife
  • Power sander and/or planer
  • Rasp
  • 2 strips of 1 oz. fiberglass mat, 18 by 3 inch
  • Fiberglass resin and activator, stirring pot and stirring stick
  • Safety glasses and latex gloves
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Instructions

    • 1

      Measure the 2 by 2 and cut it to the length of your paddle. Paddle length is traditionally measured in centimeters. If you are taller than 5 feet 6 inches, cut the shaft between 194 and 200 cm long. If you are 5 feet to 5 feet 8 inches, cut the shaft between 191 and 197 cm. If you are shorter than 5 feet 2 inches, cut the shaft between 181 and 194 cm long. Choose a length toward the short end of the range if you paddle high (more vertical) and toward the longer end of the range if your paddle style is more horizontal.

    • 2

      Design the rough shape of your blades. Decide what length and width you want the blade to be. Choose a blade pattern that's shorter and wider if you paddle high, longer and thinner if you paddle low and somewhere in between for general use. Lay out the planks side by side to form the rough shape of the blade on either side of the shaft.

    • 3

      Assemble the first blade. Thin the last 18 inches of the shaft to 1/2 inch with the planer or sander. Arrange two planks side by side on either side of the shaft. Glue the seams with waterproof glue and clamp together or wrap with bungee cords. Wipe off the excess glue and allow the blade to dry and cure overnight.

    • 4

      Shape the first blade. Trace the blade shape you want from another paddle, cut out a paper template and mark the shape on the rough blade. Cut out the shape with a saber saw.

    • 5

      Assemble the second blade. Trim and thin the shaft at a 78-degree angle. Plane or sand the shaft down to 1/2 inch thick using a planer. Lay two planks each, side by side on either side of the shaft as you did on the other end. Glue the seams, clamp or wrap and wipe off the glue. Allow to cure.

    • 6

      Shape the second blade and round the shaft. Flip the template over and mark the shape on the second blade. Cut the blade shape with a saber saw. Sand both blades smooth, round the edges and shape the blade so it curves into the throat of the shaft. Round the shaft with the drawknife, rasp and sander.

    • 7

      Sand the paddle smooth with coarse, then medium, then fine grade sandpaper. When the paddle is ready, stain it with an oil stain by wiping the stain on, allowing it to set for a moment and then wiping it off.

    • 8

      Coat the tips of the blades with fiberglass. Mix the fiberglass resin and activator. Fold the fiberglass mat strip over the tips of both blades. Paint resin mixture over the outside of the fiberglass. Work the resin into the fabric until the white threads disappear. Use a spreader to remove bubbles until the fiberglass is clear. Allow to dry and cure. Apply at least two thin coats of marine spar varnish over the entire paddle. The more coats of varnish, the better protected your blade.

    • 9

      Sand between coats of varnish with fine grade steel wool. Allow the paddle to dry and set. Wax the paddle with surfboard wax.