How to Paddle Out With a Longboard

Surfboards over nine feet in length are classified as longboards. They are superior paddling vehicles. You can paddle out faster on a longboard than on a mid-length or a shortboard. That's the good news about a longboard. The bad news? It's a long board. The expansive surface area and considerable "float" of a longboard is a disadvantage when encountering incoming surf while paddling out. Unlike less-buoyant shortboards, longboards cannot readily be "ducked," or dived under approaching waves to avoid a hammering. Should you find yourself caught in the impact zone, struggling to maintain control of that unwieldy fiberglass log against the mighty forces of the ocean, you'll wish you had something shorter.

Instructions

  1. First Watch, Then Surf

    • 1

      Exercise good timing. Waves arrive in sets. In the lulls between sets, the water is generally more flat and conducive to an easy paddle-out. Observe the surf for a while to get a feel for how the sets are timed before venturing out.

    • 2

      Time your paddle-out so you'll paddle through the impact zone -- the area where the waves are breaking -- during a lull between incoming sets.

    • 3

      Paddle energetically once you hit the water. Exploit the longboard's speed and sprint for the "outside" -- the calm water beyond the impact zone. Don't loiter inside.

    Small Surf

    • 4

      Push-up and punch through if you're paddling out as a wave between one and three feet high rolls in.

    • 5

      Paddle straight into the wave. As you meet the wave head-on, shift your weight forward and push the nose of your board down into the base of the wave.

    • 6

      Lift your body up off the deck of the board in imitation of a standard gym class push-up. Allow the energy of the wave to pass through the space between the board and your body.

    • 7

      Quickly assume prone position and resume paddling.

    Larger White Water

    • 8

      Take it sitting down when a larger wave breaks in front of you and you're facing a rush of white water.

    • 9

      Sit up on the board and scoot back toward the tail. Position your weight far enough back to lift the nose about three feet out of the water.

    • 10

      Grip the rails tightly. As you engage the wave, throw your weight upward and forward to pop the board up and over the leading edge of white water.

    The Last Resort

    • 11

      Do what turtles do. A very large wave breaks ahead and a thundering wall of water five feet high rampages towards you. Remain in a prone position and make sure your board is perpendicular to the onslaught.

    • 12

      Grip the rails tightly, approximately even with your head. As the wave arrives, hold your breath and roll over upside down with the board like a shell over you. This maneuver is known as The Turtle.

    • 13

      Allow the bottom of the board to absorb the wave's impact as you cling to the deck underwater. Hold on tight and try not to let the wave energy rip the board from your grasp.

    • 14

      Roll back over and grab a breath of air. Don't get comfortable. If you've been caught inside by a wave of moderate size or larger, you are no longer in a lull. Another wave just like the last one is probably close behind. Get into position and paddle like mad for the outside.