How to Buy an Ice Axe

An ice ax is an important piece of mountaineering equipment. The type of ax you choose will depend on the type of climbing you do and your skill level. When buying an ice ax, important factors to consider are length, weight, rating or grade, leash, shape of the shaft, the pick and the feel of the grip.

Instructions

    • 1

      Determine what type of ice ax to buy based on what kind of climbing you do. Choose a technical ax for steep climbs--technical axes are recommended for any climb rated Grade III or above in difficulty. Select a walking ax if most of your mountaineering doesn't involve technical climbing. These axes have heads that are shaped to be conducive to upright posture. Choose an alpine ax, also called a mountaineering ax, if you do a combination moderate climbing and walking. Because of its versatility, choose the alpine ax if you are a beginner.

    • 2

      Choose the rating of the ax based on what kind of climbing you do. Buy a B-rated (basic) ax if you mostly walk with only light climbing. Choose a T-rated (technical) ax if you mostly climb.

    • 3

      Make sure that the ax is the proper length for you. Longer axes are better for walking; shorter axes are better for climbing and quick hooking actions. Hold the ax and move it around to see if the length feels comfortable. Do not buy an ax that feels awkward. Hold the ax by the section of the head called the adz; hold it at your side so the spike points down. If you are a climber and the spike extends farther than your ankle, it is too long for you.

    • 4

      Make sure that the ax is the proper weight for you. Choose an ax that is light enough to carry comfortably and heavy enough to provide enough power to break up ice or hook into rock.

    • 5

      Look for an ax that has a leash. The leash is a loop that goes around your wrist and will prevent you from losing your ax if you drop it. Leashes can be bought separately if your preferred ax does not come with one.

    • 6

      Choose an ax with a shaft and pick that will match your climbing tasks. Shafts can be bent, curved or straight. Bent and curved shafts are ergonomic when your climbing practices require a lot of hooking. A moderate angle on the hook of an ax is best for general climbing, while a sharper angle is best for technical ice climbing. Straight shafts are effective for glacier travel. Choose a straight pick if you are engaged in traditional mountaineering and a reverse-curve pick if you are an ice climber.

    • 7

      Check how the handle feels when you hold onto the ax. Put your gloves on and hold different axes. Choose one that feels comfortable. Some ice axes come with a rubber handle cover and some do not.