Ski Waxing Techniques
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Go, Speed Racer, Go
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There's a reason manufacturers and competitive ski teams employ professional technicians specifically to prep skis prior to downhill, slalom or skier-X races. These pros constantly experiment and strive to perfect the delicate balance exhibited between base patterns, snow/wax temperature variables, wax application methods and more.
Hot, But Not Too Hot
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One of the most important parts of ski waxing involves the wax applicator, that is, the iron. It's important to find a temperature that is not too hot, because burning the bases of your skis is actually quite easy to do and will turn out to be a costly mistake. Turn on your iron about 15 minutes before you begin the waxing process. Specialized ski waxing irons have highly sensitive settings that will help prevent damaging the ski bases. Otherwise, use a normal iron (one that isn't used to iron your clothes), find a low heat setting that is warm enough to melt the wax without smoking and mark that spot with a permanent marker for future reference.
Cleanliness Is Next to Godliness
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So you want to leave everyone in your frozen crystalline dust like Kid Icarus? It won't matter how great your wax technique is if the bases of your skis aren't cleaned prior to applying the drippy stuff. There are base cleaners/wax removers available, but many ski tuning pros believe these solvents do more harm than good to the base structure in the long run.
Use a rag or paper towel to get rid of any easily removable debris; then apply a "base-care" wax to the skis. This product will ultimately help the final "glide-wax" coat to bond better with the ski. Once applied, scrape it off (while still hot) with a plastic scraper. Always remove wax/debris in a motion from tip to tail. Repeat this process if required.
My Poor Babies ...
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It's hard to see your little babies get injured ... little babies meaning your beloved ski planks. After cleaning the bases, determine if any tuning work is necessary (i.e., base grind/weld, edge work, p-tex). If so, repair as needed. Otherwise, continue onward to the next waxing step.
Let the Waxing Begin--Base-Care Wax
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Apply another coat of base-care wax, this time allowing the preliminary coat to cool. Scrape off this coat of wax with a plastic scraper.
Let the Waxing Begin--Glide-Wax
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Depending on snow/temperature conditions, choose the proper wax (cold, normal, warm). Lightly press the wax against the iron, allowing the wax to drip from the narrow end of the iron onto the ski base. Cover the entire length of the ski (approximately three to four "lines" of wax); then, begin spreading the wax evenly from tip to tail by making one, steady, controlled pass along the length of the ski. Make two or three more controlled passes along the length of the ski--not too fast, not too slow--maintaining contact with the ski base at all times with a nonsmoking iron. Allow the wax to cool at room temperature (or set outside in a cool, dry place if in a hurry). The aforementioned wax application technique should be used when applying base-care wax as well.
Smooth It Out
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After allowing the ski bases to cool, scrape off the wax from tip to tail. Be careful to not gouge into the base material. Scraping allows the pores of the base to open and ultimately fill with wax. Use a coarse brush, then a fine brush and last, a polishing cloth to finish the process.
I Don't Have Time for That
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If you overslept and don't want to miss out on an epic powder day, simply apply some fluorinated rub-on wax. Or if you're really in a pinch, vigorously rub a wax bar directly against the base of your skis after clearing away any debris. These suggestions should not and cannot replace a steady waxing regimen (after approximately every five to seven uses), but a little bit of glide is better than none at all.
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