How to Use a Mammut Smart Belay

The Mammut Smart Belay device is a lightweight, non-mechanical belay tool. When the climber takes a fall, the Mammut Smart Belay device uses friction to lock the rope into the device and carabiner on the belayer's harness, halting the fall. When the climber is rappelling back down with the help of the belayer, the device is used to provide a slow descent with the rope through friction. As with all climbing gear, the proper use is crucial to the safety of both belayer and climber.

Things You'll Need

  • 8.9mm to 10.5mm Dynamic climbing rope
  • Climbing harness
  • Locking carabiner
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Instructions

    • 1

      Put on your climbing harness and safety gear. Slide your locking carabiner into the front harness loop and slide the Smart Belay device onto the carabiner using the carabiner hole on the end of the device. Lock the carabiner by screwing the gate closed all the way and then unscrewing it by one-quarter turn.

    • 2

      Tie a double figure-eight knot into the end of your climbing rope onto your locked carabiner.

    • 3

      Thread the working end (climber's end) or the rope through the end of the Mammut Smart Belay device on the rope thread hole closest to the carabiner hole. Push the rope under the carabiner metal where it meets the hole and then thread the rope through the length of the device.

    • 4

      Make the climber tie off his/her climbing harness with the double figure-eight knot on his/her harness locking carabiner. Begin the belay process by feeding rope to the climber through the Mammut Smart Belay device.

    • 5

      Spread your legs so you lower your center of gravity during the belay. If the climber falls, let your hand release the rope in front of your while keeping your hand on the rope behind you and below the device. Let the friction of the rope going through the Mammut Smart Belay device lock the rope into position stopping the climber's fall.

    • 6

      Squeeze down on the Smart Belay device releasing the rope slowly to assist the climber on his/her rappel off the crag.