How to Top a Rope Anchor

During rock, ice or alpine climbing, rope anchors become a necessary tool. Knowing how to fasten and set these rope anchors up is as much art and technical skill. Because you consider terrain, winds, weather, anchor points such as trees, rocks or other natural objects and the gear you have with you, setting rope anchors is a skill that calls upon improvisational abilities. That said, there are some basic things to keep in mind when setting rope anchors. Keep the anchor points at the top of the ropes, and limit the amount of direct friction on the ropes via the anchors.

Things You'll Need

  • Tubular nylon webbing, 1-inch wide
  • Utility knife
  • Lighter
  • Several carabiners - anchor dependent
  • One locking gate carabiner - steel
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Instructions

    • 1

      Tie several pieces of the 1-inch nylon webbing so they make loops. Use a water knot to tie the loops.

    • 2

      Set the loops around trees or solid objects like large rocks, posts or spires. Use a simple trucker's hitch to set the nylon anchors around the objects. Bring the long end of the loop to a focal point between the anchor objects. Pull all loops to the focal point. Picture a triangle with the anchors as the angles and the loops connecting at the final point-angle of the triangle. This is the top of the rope anchor systems.

    • 3

      Twist each nylon anchor-loop 1/2 turn so they look like long figure-eights. At the point where all the loops meet, place the locking carabiner and push the loops into the gate.

    • 4

      Place the pulley into the carabiner and turn the locking gate-screw all the way clockwise until it stops then turn it counterclockwise 1/4 turn. Thread the rope through the pulley and drop it down the rock face or cliff.

    • 5

      Grip the first foot of the rope near the carabiner and pull so there is tension on all the anchors. Test the top -- the anchor loops connected via the carabiner -- to ensure the carabiner slides through the nylon webbing with no friction to the ropes or rocks.