How to Learn to Surf a Longboard
Instructions
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1
Rent a longboard from a local surf shop; ask them to match a board to your body size and experience level. More than likely, you can rent by the hour, half-day or day. If you're serious about learning, consider negotiating for a full week--a series of back-to-back days in the water is the best way to learn to surf.
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2
Determine whether or not you're goofy! Left foot forward on the board is considered a regular stance; right foot forward is goofy--really: it's called goofy foot. Once you decide, and assuming you're already at the beach, strap the leash snugly onto your back ankle.
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3
Carry the board out to the calm water near shore--away from any breaking waves--lie down, and begin to practice paddling around. Adjust your weight forward and backward until you're well-balanced and able to glide through the water with the least amount of effort.
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4
Paddle your surfboard out to where the waves are rolling toward shore in rows of foamy white water--after they've already broken. Think: nice, easy, rolling foam; not barreling waves! Once you're out there--if there's a sandy bottom--you can stand next to your board to get turned around. Otherwise, paddle into position so that you're facing shore and perpendicular to those foamy rows of water.
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5
Paddle like mad when you see a foamy wave approaching. Make sure you're perpendicular to the wave, and with your weight centered--not too far forward or back. You'll get a hang for it with practice and a few tumbles!
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6
Keep paddling as the waves reach you, and do not stop until you're sure it's carrying you along with it to shore. Stay flat and enjoy the ride--you're surfing! OK, well, almost. Ride several in on your stomach until you have a good feel for when and how the wave grabs you.
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7
Stand up once you've learned to catch the wave lying down. Pop up as soon as the wave starts to carry your surfboard. Basically, begin a push-up and jump to your feet as smoothly and quickly as possible. It becomes harder the longer you wait--as your stability goes down with your speed.
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