Rappelling Tips

Descending a climbing rope by the use of friction is called "rappelling," which can be used to safely control the speed of descent. This is a priceless technique in the world of climbing and mountaineering; sometimes, it is the only way to get down from a climb or cliffy area. For all to go smoothly, a strong balance must be made between the strength of your anchors, the rope and good technique.

  1. Anchors and Rappelling

    • Anchors must be chosen carefully for strength and dependability. You cannot adjust the anchor once you are going down on the rappel. It must be made perfect from the start. The rappel anchor needs to support your full weight plus that of any gear you are hauling or any tugs and sudden stops you may make. Look for an anchor location that is free of sharp edges as this can cut and damage your rope. Look first for sturdy natural anchors such as well-rooted tree trunks or rock horns. Sometimes, you will find an excellent tree, for example, and all you will need to do is attach a nylon webbing sling around it to feed your rope through (so the rope does not abrade against the bark of the tree), but you may wish to make a multipoint anchor for more security. When using artificial anchors, always use more than one anchor point and equalize the load between them. Be wary of old artificial anchors, slings and webbing left by other climbers. Always test an anchor before you attach rappel gear and if it is at all in question, add another anchor point if you can; then equalize the anchors.

    The Rope

    • Always check the entire length of your rope before setting it up for a rappel and putting your life on it. Make sure there are no cuts, fraying, large flat spots or other unnatural defects. Feed the rope through at the equalization point of your anchor (through the slings or descending ring if you have attached one) and feed it through so that the midpoint of the rope is at the equalization point. Keep the point where your rappel sling and rope connect away from the overhanging edge of the rock or ice route so the rope doesn't bind or abrade. Tie backup knots at the ends of your rappel rope and tie yourself to an anchor before tossing the ends of the rope down the rappel route. Always alert others down below that you are throwing the rope by yelling, "Rope!" Try to aim so that the rope ends do not catch or tangle on anything below and make sure the ends are even.

    Your Technique

    • It is important that you keep a steady brake hand and, contrary to your natural instincts, that you do not grab onto the rope with both hands. Do this, and you will fly down the rope uncontrollably. Rappelling is about how you control your descent, so take a deep breath and lean your seat into your harness with your feet flat on the wall in front of you as you "walk" down the route. No matter what system you use, whether it is your belay device such as an ATC or figure eight, you insert the two strands of rope at the anchor into your rappel (belay) device and clip this into your harness with a locking carabiner. The bends in the rope through the rappel device are what create friction and control the speed of your descent. Keep the ropes in your brake hand down below the rappel device to maintain a slow, controlled descent. Keep your other hand at your side or on your thigh, whichever is more comfortable. Using belay gloves can help with gripping the rope and also with rope burn should the rope get away from you.