Types of Climbing Rope

Climbing rope is one of the most essential pieces of gear when climbing. Ropes are designed and tailored to fit specific types of climbs and are tested to guarantee their safety under those conditions. There is a rope for every sort of climb, so it's important to consult an expert or mountain guide to determine which is best for your needs. They are made from a variety of synthetic materials and are extremely safe when used correctly.

  1. Function

    • Ropes are what climbers use to anchor themselves for safety while climbing, usually through a harness system. There are various names for ropes, including workhorse singles, all-around singles, half ropes, twin ropes and static ropes.
      According to REI.com, workhorse singles are used for big walls, top roping and working sport routes. All-around singles are used for sport, trad and alpine (rock, ice and snow). Half ropes are used for wandering multi-pitch rock or alpine routes that you will need to rappel from or might have to retreat to halfway through. Twin ropes are used for ice climbs and non-wandering rock climbs where rappelling is in the cards. Static ropes are used for rappelling, rescue and big-wall ascending---anytime you are lowering, ascending or pulling up a load with the rope. It is important to choose the correct rope for the type of climb you're performing, for maximum safety.

    Types: Static & Dynamic

    • The two main types of ropes, according to rockclimbing.com, are dynamic and static. Dynamic ropes are designed with a little "stretch" to lessen the impact of a fall from high elevations. They are used on lead climbs because the stretch is needed in case the lead climber falls. Static ropes do not stretch under loads, and are usually used for jobs like rappelling or hauling gear.

    Sizes

    • Beyond choosing between dynamic and static rope, there are different lengths of rope to choose from, along with varying thicknesses. According to rockclimbing.com, the three ropes sizes are single, twin and half/double.
      Single rope is very thin and the lightest of the three types, with a width between 9.5mm and 11mm. Twin ropes are two ropes that are designed to be used in tandem, and are even thinner than single ropes, usually 7.6mm each. Half or double ropes are two ropes that are used like the twin ropes, but they are thicker and more durable for more dangerous conditions, usually around 8.8mm.

      Standard rope length is 60m, but they can range up to 80m.

    Considerations

    • The correct rope is essential for each climbing situation, as it can often mean the difference between injury, death or complete safety. Check the fall ratings of each rope you are considering with the UIAA (International Union of Alpine Associations), and make sure they are rated "CE," as this guarantees their safety for their intended use. Log any falls you take on a rope so that you know how much wear and tear it has accrued. Standard ratings for ropes are 5 falls for single and double, and 12 falls for twin ropes.
      Lifetimes of ropes vary, but they have a maximum lifetime of 15 years if they are stored, and a rope cannot exceed use for more than 10 years. Using a rope daily in hard climbing will shorten its lifetime to 1 year; weekly hard climbing, 2 years; light climbing daily, 3 years; and light climbing weekly, 5 years.
      Dry ropes are given a treatment that prevents them from taking in water, and are used for climbs where the rope may get wet. They are generally used for ice climbing or mountaineering, and are usually not necessary for rock climbing conditions.

    Expert Insight

    • Michael Silitch, a professional mountain guide in the Alps, owns more than 15 types of rope. While he recommends tailoring the rope to the climb, he also has a go-to rope that he uses often for any route. "The most common rope out there is a 60m-long dry rope with a 9.8mm to 10.2mm diameter---a great workhorse or all-around rope that will work for many situations."