Basic Archery Bow Making

Archery is popular for both hunting and competition. A well-built bow has been a prized instrument for hunting, defense and warfare since prehistoric times. Bowyers have continually improved on bow construction throughout history, creating ever more powerful and accurate bows. Today’s archers can choose from a large selection of archery tackle, including three main types of bows: the longbow, the recurve bow and the compound bow. Many archers and collectors enjoy crafting their own bows and arrows. The basic process has changed very little over time.

Things You'll Need

  • Work bench
  • Two 4-foot x 8-foot sheets of 3/4 inch plywood
  • Band saw
  • Files and rasps
  • Sandpaper block with sandpaper of various grits
  • Epoxy glue
  • Leather strips
  • Clamps
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Instructions

  1. The Longbow

    • 1

      Measure your draw length from the middle of your chest to the tips of your fingers with your arms held out directly in front of you. You can also use your height, since most people's arm span is the same as their height. Estimate your draw strength according to your height, gender and general musculature. For example, a 5-foot-4-inch female of not much athletic ability can pull a bow of 20 to 30 pounds, while a well-muscled man who is 6 feet 3 inches tall might pull a bow of 55 or even 60 pounds.

    • 2

      Buy or cut a stave of a suitable wood such as maple, hickory, Osage orange and yew. Maple is popular today because of its hardness and availability. Select a stave according to your draw length. Check the stave for knots or cracks, which make the stave unsuitable.

    • 3

      Measure the stave and mark the exact center, both lengthwise and crosswise, to locate the belly of the bow. Bend the stave into a gentle, symmetrical curve with the belly exactly at the apogee, or top, of the curve. Moisten the wood evenly with steam or boiling water for a smoother bend. Clamp the bow to a curved form and let it dry for 24 hours. Gently sand or file off flat or stiff spots to improve the curve.

    • 4

      Create the grip by wrapping the belly with leather, or build up a laminated riser by gluing strips of wood or fiberglass. Sand the laminated riser to a very smooth surface.

    • 5

      Cut or file grooves near the tips of the bow to form nocks, or notches, that hold the bowstring, or glue pre-shaped nocks. Purchase nocks from among the many buffalo horn, cow horn or fiberglass nocks available on the Web.

    • 6

      String the bow by slipping one of the pre-made loops onto one tip of the bow seating it securely into the nock, then brace that tip against the inside of your foot and press down on the bow until you can slip the other loop of the bowstring into the other nock. Check the action when the bow is strung but at rest; the distance between the belly and the string should be about the width of your fist with your thumb extended in a “thumbs up” gesture.

    The Recurve Bow

    • 7

      Buy fiberglass staves for the inner and outer surfaces of the bow, and a wood stave for the core of this bow. The wood core adds flexibility and strength to the bow and the thicker the wood core, the greater the draw strength or weight required to pull the bow. Use the same draw length and draw strength criteria as for the longbow.

    • 8

      Steam bend the staves to the desired shape, using a form to achieve the correct curvature. A form can be purchased or made in the workshop by using a band saw to cut a thick piece of plywood into the shape of the bow you are building. Allow the staves to set in the form several hours.

    • 9

      Construct a simple drying oven using a rectangular box large enough to accommodate the bow form. Insulate the box with foam nailed to the inside of the top, bottom and sides. Attach five to eight light sockets with 40-watt light bulbs along the inside of the box lid with the cord running outside one end to the plug.

    • 10

      Glue the staves together with epoxy and heat set the bow in the form for eight hours in your drying oven or use a car parked in the sun as your drying oven. Heat set for about eight hours. Remove the bow and form from the drying oven or car and allow it to set in the workshop for another 10 to 12 hours.

    • 11

      Apply several coats of high quality varnish if the outer layers are wood to protect the bow and to bring out the beauty of the wood grain. Apply lacquer on fiberglass bows. Allow to dry for several hours according to the requirements of the particular finish. Wrap the belly with leather for a grip or glue on a purchased molded foam grip that fits your hand.