How to Install a 10' Tall Tennis Court Fence

Mark the location of the gate posts with spray paint on each long side of the court. To do this, measure 58 feet from each corner to the middle of the court. This leaves a 4-foot gap between the two marks for the gate.

Mark locations for the posts around the court. Install a post every 7 1/2 feet along the ends of the court and every 7 1/4 feet along the sides of the court except where the gates are being installed.

Dig the holes for the posts. In most cases, dig holes 4 feet deep for the end posts and 3 1/2 feet for the line posts, but check local building codes as this can vary by municipality due to local conditions. Make the holes wider at the bottom than at the top.

Pour 6 inches of gravel into each hole and tamp it down with a two-by-four.

Place the first terminal -- end -- post into the first corner hole, then fill it with concrete. Use a level to check that the post is plumb -- i.e., vertically straight. Set the rest of the posts and allow the concrete to cure for at least two days.

Slide five tension bands over the top of each corner post. Do not set their exact position yet.

Slide the brace bands over the corner posts, positioning them in the center of the posts, then attach the rail end cup to the brace band. Do not overtighten the bolts on the brace bands.

Slide five more tension bands over the corner posts, then put the caps on the posts.

Frame the gate posts. Slide five tension bands over each gate post, then center a brace band with a rail end cup, facing away from the gate, in the middle of the posts. Slide one more tension band over the post, then install a brace band and rail end cup on the post 7 feet high -- face the rail end up into the gate.

Slide three more tension bands over the fence posts, then install brace bands and rail end cups 10 feet off the ground.

Place 3-foot-long sections of metal post into the rail end cups over the gates. Cap the gate posts.

Slide a boulevard over the in-line posts and secure it at the midpoint. This is a piece that contains fittings on both sides for rail posts. Place the loop caps on top of the in-line posts.

Install the top rail pipe by sliding it through the loop caps and into the rail end cups. Cut rail pipe as needed and fit different sections of pipe together with top rail sleeves.

Install the middle rails by connecting them to the rail end cups at the corner posts and boulevards on the in-line posts.

Unroll the chain-link fabric, keeping it upright. Slide the tension bar through the links at the end of the fabric and connect the tension bar to the tension bands.

Continue unrolling the fabric and stand it against the fence, tying it to the top rail with a wire tie every 3 to 4 feet. When you run out of fabric, weave another roll to it by winding the wires in the first roll to the wires in the second roll.

Insert another tension bar about 3 feet inside the corner or gate post. Attach the fence puller to the post and the tension bar.

Stretch the fabric, getting it tight enough that there is very little play when you try to squeeze the chain link fabric.

Remove excess fabric by untying the top and bottom wires and unwinding the excess fabric.

Slide a tension bar through the end of the fabric. Attach the tension bar to the corner post with the tension bands and remove the fence puller from the fabric.

Tie the chain-link fabric to the fence posts and middle rails with the wire ties every 12 inches. Continue installing the chain-link fabric until the fence is complete except for the gates.

Bolt the bottom box hinges to the gate posts about 2 inches off the ground. Place the gate on the bottom box hinge and mark the location on the post for the top hinge.

Place the top hinge on the post, but don't secure it yet. Slide the gate back onto the bottom hinge, and slide the top hinge onto the gate. Bolt the top hinge into position. Install the other gate.