How to Ascend a Fixed Line

For big-mountain climbing in the Himalayas, or a project at your local climbing area, you may decide to leave a line or rope fixed to the wall to ascend later on. When there is difficult terrain at the beginning of a route, it is common to leave a rope to descend and ascend multiple times, eliminating the need to climb those difficult sections again. Ascending a fixed line requires different techniques depending on the angle of the terrain, but for any novice climber with the right gear, it is easy to master.

Things You'll Need

  • 2 mechanical ascenders
  • Harness
  • 2 locking carabiners
  • 2 non-locking carabiners
  • 2 etriers or ladders
  • 2 slings
  • 2 prusik loops
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Instructions

  1. Vertical Fixed Line

    • 1

      Connect two medium length slings to the main attachment point on your harness. The optimum sling length for connecting yourself to the ascenders varies according to your body type, but generally lies between 18 to 30 inches.. You should be able to comfortably grab the ascender while hanging from the sling.

    • 2

      Attach one locking carabiner to the end of each sling. Connect one mechanical ascender to each sling with the attached carabiners. Also connect one ladder or etrier to each locking carabiner on each ascender. Lock the carabiners.

    • 3

      Open the rope biting section of the ascender. You can identify this by looking for the tiny spikes, or teeth, on a rotating piece of metal. Attach the ascenders to the rope, one just above the other, and close the rope biting section.

    • 4

      Find the top-most hole in the mechanical ascenders. Clip a non-locking carabiner through the hole and around the rope above the ascender. This fail-safe ensures that the rope will not accidentally come out of the ascender during use.

    • 5

      Hang on the rope from the slings attached to your harness. Put your feet in the etriers. Stand up on one ascender while taking the weight off the other. Slide the non-weighted ascender up the rope. Switch sides as you stand on the higher ascender and slide the non-weighted ascender up to meet the higher ascender. Repeat this process with slow, fluid motions as you ascend the fixed line.

    Non-Vertical Fixed Line

    • 6

      Take a rough measurement of the angle of the terrain. To ascend on lower angle rock, ice or snow, you may use mechanical ascenders without the aid of foot ladders or etriers. Depending on your strength and the conditions, you may be able to use this method for inclines up to 80 degrees.

    • 7

      Attach two slings to your harness, and connect a mechanical ascender to each one with a locking carabiner through the bottom loop of the ascender. Put the rope in the mechanical ascender and lock the carabiners.

    • 8

      Hold an ascender in each hand, and pull yourself upward. Slide an ascender up the rope while putting your full weight on the other, then repeat with the opposite ascender. A fixed line on non-vertical terrain can accommodate multiple climbers simultaneously.

    • 9

      Clip the locking carabiner through the top loop of the ascender to climb on the terrain using the fixed line only as a backup. Climb normally, using both hands on the steep terrain. The sling will pull the ascenders up the rope behind you, without you needing to slide them by hand.