How to Make Hickory Bows

Select a piece of hickory with the grain of the wood running longitudinally rather than laterally. Lay the piece on a work surface and flip it over several times to select the best side as the inside, or facing dimension, of the bow to be carved. It should be without marks or knots. When carved, this inside, flat surface will be facing the shooter and perpendicular to the line of sight.

Use a tape measure and T-square to locate the midpoint of the 2-by-2-by-60-inch piece of hickory. Use a pencil to mark the midpoint on the inside face. Measure and mark two lines -- one at 2 inches above and the other at 2 inches below the midpoint -- as demarcation points for the upper and lower ends of the hand grip.

Use a dovetail saw to cut the wood piece down to a 48-inch length − the optimum length for an efficient hunting bow -- and 1 1/2-inch thick.

Measure and mark three 7-inch points, on both sides of the 4-inch handle, along the outside (thickness) edge of the bow, both above and below the handle. Use these as lines of carving demarcation. As carving progresses toward the tips of both ends of the bow, more of the wood should be carved away. The inside surface of the bow as it approaches the tip should be almost flat.

Hold the bow blank on a sound working surface with one hand and carving implements in the other. Use a single-handed scorp (hand carver) or hand plane to begin carving the bow. Make all carving cuts and motions away from the holding hand and toward the tip. Take the first stave section (first 7-inch section) down by 20 percent; the next down by 30 percent and the third down by 40 percent. As the inside surface reaches the upper and lower tips it should be flat and the bow's thickness should not exceeding 5/8-inch. Finish by carving the inside edges over and rounding them.

Flip the piece over and carve the entire back side of the bow to a 1-inch flat surface. The final width of the bow should not exceed 1 1/2 inches. Round and smooth its lateral edges.

Carve the tips of the bow into narrow, 3/4-inch-wide string points, capable of holding a wrapped and tied bowstring. Carve string notches 1 inch down and up from the end of the bow by drawing a heavy knife toward the handle while curving it inward.

Bone all the wood surfaces to prevent cracking by sliding or rubbing a heavy, smooth piece of chromed or shiny metal, with maximum hand force, repeatedly over all the bow surfaces.

Paint the 4-inch handle with a light coat of construction glue. Wrap the glued handle with 1/2-inch-wide, flat strips of rawhide or elk skin. Be sure that the edges are touching. Wrap heavy cord or twine around the rawhide and tie it securely. Allow the glue to age for 48 hours.

String the bow with a 50-inch, 16-strand Dacron bowstring. Slide one loop over and around the upper string notch. Place the bottom end of the bow on a soft but supportive surface -- like a carpeted step. Hold the untied end of the string and bend the bow downward until it is heavily stressed. Slide the hand holding the loose end of the string down until the string extends beyond the bottom notch by at least 6 inches. Hold the string where it crosses the notch. Release the bow tension, remove the upper bowstring loop and tie the bottom end of the string around the bottom notch. Finish stringing the bow by bending it and sliding the loop-end over the top string notch. Draw the bow.