How to Use Prusicks and Cordelettes

Prusiks and cordelettes have many uses in the climbing and mountaineering world. What might at first seem to be simple pieces of ropes and cord can be turned into lifesavers. The following are how to use prusiks as ascenders and cordelettes to equalize climbing anchors.

Things You'll Need

  • 18 feet of cordelette made of 7 to 8-millimeter perlon cord
  • 10 to 12 feet of 6-millimeter accessory cord
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Instructions

    • 1

      Cut the 10 to 12 feet of 5 to 7-millimeter accessory cord into two sections. These will be used as loops for the prusik knots. Prusiks are friction knots used to ascend climbing ropes. To create the loops tie a double fisherman's knot and tighten.

    • 2

      Wrap a girth hitch around the climbing rope with the prusik loop. Make it above your harness at shoulder level. Wrap the excess length of the loop around the climbing rope within the girth hitch. More wraps equals more friction, so cut at least 2 to 3 wraps before tightening down.

    • 3

      Attach the second prusik loop in the same way but below your harness. This is done so you can create a "boot" and lift yourself up in ascent. The prusik knot tightens naturally from friction when weight is put on it. By using this method one can ascend or descend a climbing rope. Step up on one prusik knot while sliding up the one above. Next move up the bottom one to step up again in an inch-worm style process.

    • 4

      Tie the 18 feet of 7 to 8-millimeter cordelette into a tightened double fisherman's knot. Make it into a loop. Cordalettes are used as a form of static equalization for a three or two point anchor. To equalize a three point anchor, clip the cordelette into the carabiners on each anchor point. Pull down the two segments in between the three points so they meet the bottom piece of cordelette. You should be able to grab the three layers of rope at the bottom and pull side-to-side, feeling the point of weight shifting evenly from all three points. While pulling straight down, tie all three segments into an overhand or figure eight knot if you have enough rope. Clip a locking carabiner into the bottom loop.

    • 5

      Make sure the V created by the anchor points and cordelette is never over 90-degrees or the load on individual anchors drastically increases. Around 40 to 50-degrees is more appropriate. Practice making anchors at home and always check that caribiners are locked before putting actual weight on an anchor.