How to Climb a Jam Crack in Rock Climbing

Finger Jam Technique

• 1

  Find a suitable finger crack. A finger crack is just large enough to fit your fingers into.

• 2

  Slide the fingers of your top hand in the crack just above your head, with your thumb pointing down.

• 3

  Slide the fingers of your bottom hand in the crack in the same way.

• 4

  Drop your elbow down toward your side, camming your fingers in the crack. While this may be unpleasant on your fingers, it makes for a solid grip.

• 5

  Use your feet on the face or in the crack, whichever is better.

• 6

  Push up with your feet and pull with your hands, keeping the elbow dropped and the fingers cammed.

• 7

  Move your hands and feet up and repeat.

Hand Crack Technique

• 8

  Find a suitable hand crack. A hand crack will accept most or all of your hand snugly.

• 9

  Slide your top hand in the crack thumbs down.

• 10

  Slide your bottom hand in the crack either thumbs down or thumbs up.

• 11

  Drop your elbow down to your side to cam your hand in the crack.

• 12

  Place your feet in the crack sideways with the big toes up.

• 13

  Stand up on your feet while you pull up with your hands.

• 14

  Alternate hands and feet as you ascend.

Fist Crack Technique

• 15

  Find a suitable fist crack. A fist crack is 3 to 4 inches wide and will be too big for your hand but too small for your made fist going straight in. It's the most difficult of the jam crack techniques, and these routes often lead to wider climbing known as off-width.

• 16

  Place your hand straight in the crack, palm down.

• 17

  Close your hand to make a fist. The sides of your fist should press very tightly against the side walls of the crack. If your fist doesn't fit tightly in the crack, it's probably too wide for a fist jam.

• 18

  Place your feet in the crack.

• 19

  Stand up on your feet as you pull with your hands.

• 20

  Alternate hands as you ascend.