How to Rate a Rock Climbing Pitch

The Yosemite Decimal System is the most widely used rating system for rock climbing pitches. The system is subjective but can give climbers a better idea of what to expect on a climb. You can rate your own climbs using the system.

Instructions

    • 1

      Go out on the rocks.

    • 2

      Pay attention to the hardest part as you climb. What you do at the hardest part determines your rating.

    • 3

      Decide if the climb is a Class 1 rating. Class one is not really a climb at all. It's walking up a gentle slope on a well-established trail. A Class 1 hike means you don't have to use your hands.

    • 4

      Determine if the climb is a Class 2. Class 2 is steep hiking where you need your hands for balance occasionally.

    • 5

      Decide if the hike is a Class 3 climb. On a Class 3 climb, you'll need your hands almost constantly as you scramble across the rocks.

    • 6

      Rate your climb a Class 4 if it requires a belay and it's about like climbing a perfectly vertical ladder; you'd probably survive if you fell, but you'd sustain serious injuries.

    • 7

      Choose a rating from Class 5 if the climb is more difficult. This is generally what people think of when they hear rock climbing, and it's always vertical or near vertical.
      5.0 to 5.4 is where there are two handholds and footholds for the entire climb. The holds get smaller as you go from 5.0 to 5.4. A person with no rock climbing experience who is in good shape could do these climbs.
      5.5 to 5.8 varies in the number of handholds, but the climbing is still reasonable. A person with intermediate experience can do these routes.
      5.9 is considered hard. Until the 1950s, it was considered the hardest climb a human could do. It has few handholds and requires an experienced climber.
      A 5.10 has few handholds, and requires much experience and problem-solving.
      A 5.11 has no holds or large expanses where there are no handholds or footholds. It generally requires equipment.
      A 5.12 is considered the highest level for anyone except a professional climber. It may have no holds or some holds on overhangs.
      A 5.13 is as smooth as glass and is usually only climbable by a professional.