Homemade Bow Strings
Things You'll Need
- Bowstring material
- Adjustable bowstring jig
- Steel measuring tape
- Dressmaker’s tape measure
- Soft leaded pencil
- Serving thread
- Serving jig
- Contact adhesive
- Cellophane tape
- Screwdriver
- Pair of pliers
- Beeswax
- Piece of leather
Instructions
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1
Make your strings on an adjustable bowstring jig. This consists of a telescoping two-part center beam, adjustable to varying string lengths and secured with an adjusting screw. There are two 9-inch long flat steel pivoting arms center-mounted on each end of the beam, and secured with a bolt and knurled lock nut. Each end of the pivoting arms is fitted with a 5-inch, 3/8-inch diameter polished steel winding post extending upwards. When the arms are locked at right angles to the beam, the winding posts form four corners of an oblong string winding loom. When locked in the parallel position in line with the center of the beam, the two farthest winding posts allow the two halves of the string to come together, straddling the two inner posts.
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2
Untwist your existing bowstring so that the individual strands are parallel to each other. Measure its length with a steel measuring tape and count the number of strands making up the string. Lock the winding posts to the beam in a straight line through the middle of the beam. Undo the beam adjusting screw so that the two halves can move. Adjust the length of the beam so that the distance between the far edges of the outer winding posts matches the length of the bowstring. Add 1/4 inch to allow for the end loops. Tighten the beam adjusting screw.
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3
Set the arms at right angles to the beam. Find the end of your chosen string material on its bobbin and tie it to the left-hand winding post nearest to you with a slip knot. Leave 6 inches of spare thread protruding from the knot. Keep the string taut and evenly tensioned and wind it around the four winding posts in a clockwise direction. Count the individual strands until you reach the required number. Undo the slipknot holding the beginning strand to the winding post and tie both ends together while maintaining even string tension. Position the knot in the winding post to make tightening easier.
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4
Use a dressmaker’s tape measure to mark a line 2 inches to the left of the knot between the end winding posts with a soft leaded pencil. This will be the center point of the loop serving. Grip the hank of thread firmly and slide the string sideways on the serving posts. Adjust until this mark is on the exact mid-point between the two posts and the knot is on the right of the center point. Stretch each section of string to even out the tension between the posts.
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5
Flatten the original string loop and measure its length; add 1/8 inch and transfer this measurement to the left of the center mark between the posts. Add another 1/4 inch and transfer this measurement to the right of the loop center point. Repeat with the opposite end of the string.
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6
Slide a spool of serving thread between the side posts of a “U” shaped serving jig. Insert the threaded spindle through holes and thread the knurled tension adjusting nut onto the end. Find the end of the serving thread and feed it through the hole in the center of the right angled string groove on the flat bottom face of the gig. This groove or “slot” holds the string in place while winding serving thread under tension around the string. Adjust the knurled nut on the spindle until you feel moderate resistance while pulling thread from the jig.
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7
Smear a little rubber contact adhesive on the bowstring from the mark nearest the knot toward the loop center line. Smear a little more onto the end of the serving thread, covering about an inch of thread. Allow a minute’s drying time. Carefully stick the serving thread leading from the jig to the bowstring from the right-hand mark toward the center. Apply pressure to ensure proper adhesion.
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8
Turn the reel of serving thread to take up the slack until the groove on the bottom of the jig fits snugly over the string. Wind a couple of loops around the bowstring by passing the jig around the string in an over-and-under rolling motion. Feed the overlapping threads so that they form a spiral running toward the loop center mark. Adjust the tension on the serving jig enough to draw the string tight. Continue serving until you reach the end mark of the loop. Wrap a piece of cellophane tape around the end of the serving to hold it in place and leave the serving jig hanging. Repeat on the opposite end with a second serving jig.
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9
Loosen the knurled lock nut on the end arm enough to swivel the arm sideways while maintaining tension on the string. Lift the inner hank of thread over the inner winding post so that both hanks are on the same side of the post. Lock the arm with the posts parallel to the center line of the beam. Repeat on the other end and align the posts carefully. Slide the string around the end winding post until the start of the serving is 1/4 inch past the unfinished end holding the serving jig.
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10
Clamp the loop ends together between your left forefinger and thumb and rotate the serving jig around both hanks to bind the string firmly together while forming the end loop. Pull the serving tight and rotate the jig around the string a dozen times. Place the end loop of the original string over the post on top of the new string and mark the end serving point onto the new bowstring with a soft pencil. Repeat on the other end.
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11
Continue serving until you are 1/2 inch away from the end mark. Fold a 6-inch length of scrap serving material in half and lay the looped end 3/4 inch past the serving toward the middle of the string. Secure it with two turns of serving. Hold the scrap serving in place and continue serving over looped scrap until you reach the serving line. Cut the thread 2 inches from the final turn. Pass the end of the thread through the loop protruding from under the serving. Wrap the ends around a screwdriver and pull the serving thread through. Grip the thread with a pair of pliers and pull with enough force to tighten the final few turns tightly around the string. Repeat on the other end.
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12
String the bow with the new string. Use a bracing T-square to mark the nocking point on the new string. Mark the center serving start line 1 1/2 inches above the nocking point and 3 inches below the nocking point. Use the jig to bind the center serving as described above.
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13
Unstring the bow. Remove the bottom loop and twist the bowstring clockwise eight turns. Restring the bow and check the bracing height with the bracing T-square. Continue adding or removing twists until you reach the correct bracing height.
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14
Rub a block of beeswax up and down the string on the bare material above and below the serving. Fold the rough side of a small piece of leather around the string. Squeeze the two halves tightly together and rub up and down the string vigorously. This will melt the wax between the strands and add the finishing touch to the bowstring.
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