How to Make a Goaltender Mask Out of Fiberglass

Modern goaltender masks must provide protection against a frozen vulcanized rubber disc traveling at high velocity. Pucks can cause extreme damage to the head and face without a proper solid mask to protect the goalie. Making goaltender masks is as much art as science, using high-tech ballistic materials often reserved for military use. Fiberglass, aramid (Kevlar) and various resins coalesce to provide the sleek and protective masks seen on today's hockey goaltenders.

Things You'll Need

  • Mold release
  • Plaster of Paris
  • Die grinder
  • Plasticine mold
  • Fiberglass sheets
  • Fiberglass resin
  • Automotive body filler
  • Aramid sheeting
  • 400, 150 and 40 grit sandpaper
  • Drill
  • 1-inch drill bit
  • 3/16-inch drill bit
  • Foam padding
  • Hot glue gun
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Instructions

    • 1

      Apply mold release over the face of your subject. Lay the plaster of Paris strips over your subject's face, leaving a nickel-size mouth hole to breathe through. Allow the plaster to harden.

    • 2

      Carefully remove the plaster of Paris from your subject, taking care to not flex the mold causing small cracks.

    • 3

      Fill the mouth hole with the plasticine putty. Spread more putty around the forehead, cheekbone and other areas where foam padding will eventually be applied.

    • 4

      Brush fiberglass resin into the fiberglass mat. Lay the wet fiberglass sheets over the mold to create the rough shape of the forehead ridges, throat guard and ear extensions. Allow the fiberglass resin to dry.

    • 5

      Fill any major pits in the dried fiberglass with the body filler. Sand the entire rough mold smooth with the 400-grit sandpaper.

    • 6

      Cut around the edges of the mask with the die grinder. Add additional layers of aramid sheets and fiberglass until the desired density is achieved. You want a mix of rigidity and low weight.

    • 7

      Trim and sand as needed, until the mask has formed the shape you desire. Trace around the nose, mouth and eye area of the mask in the shape conforming to the mask's cage. Make sure the trace line is 1/2 to 1 inch smaller than the cage to allow for fastening hardware.

    • 8

      Cut out the cage opening using the die grinder. Drill two 1-inch holes on each ear extension, one on each side of the throat guard and four to six strategically placed along the top. These holes reduce the mask's weight while offering increased ventilation.

    • 9

      Sand around the cutouts with the 400-grit sandpaper. Drill the hardware holes for attaching the mask and strap snaps with the 3/16-inch drill bit.

    • 10

      Sand the mask inside and out with the 400, 150 and 60 grit sandpaper, creating a smooth surface prepared for finish.

    • 11

      Hot glue the foam padding into the areas around the brow, top of the head and ear extensions. These foam pieces can be purchased pre-cut for this application.