How to Setup a Snowboard

Edges

• 1

  Detune your edges. Edges on a brand new snowboard are very sharp. Use a deburring stone to detune the tail and front tip edges (curved part of snowboard's ends). These edges do not need to be sharp and this step dulls them.

• 2

  Consider detuning an inch or so of your front effective edges (long, straight edges on front and back) to provide smoother, more forgiving carves. Use the deburring stone.

• 3

  Set your edges' bezels. Most boards come with a 0 bezel, meaning that the bottom edge is completely flat, flush with the base and the side edge is perpendicular to the bottom. Depending upon your experience and style, adjust this to prevent too much catching. Carvers may consider a very small bottom bezel, while freestyle riders need a larger one. If you're not sure, try a basic 1 degree bottom and side bezel. The bezel raises the bottom edge slightly off the ground, so it won't catch as quickly as a 0 bezel edge.

• 4

  Use the edge tool to shave down the edges to desired bevels. Set the bevel on the tool and use long strokes on the bottom and then side edges.

• 5

  Use a gummie or deburring stone to touch up the edges and smooth out after setting the bezel.

Wax

• 6

  Consider waxing the board for best performance. Although your board probably came with factory wax, waxing it yourself provides a better quality base for the smoothest performance. If you're pressed for time, skip this step.

• 7

  Hold an iron, nose down, over the board and press wax against it so it melts onto the board. Melt all over the board.

• 8

  Rub the iron onto the base to even out wax so that it has an even coat on the entire base. DO NOT stop in any spot for too long, as this could damage the board.

• 9

  Allow to dry.

• 10

  Use a plastic scraper to scrape off excess wax.

• 11

  Run a metal brush or scrub pad up the length of the base to touch up.

Bindings

• 12

  Insert your boots into each binding to ensure that the binding straps fit snugly. Make adjustments as needed, using a screwdriver or Allen wrench to tighten or loosen straps on each binding. It is easier to do this before mounting, because some bindings have specific hardware that needs to be adjusted while binding is not mounted.

• 13

  Mount the bindings. Set the bindings on the appropriate mounting holes, based upon your stance (regular or goofy) and the width of your stance. Also consider moving the bindings toward the back for deep powder riding. Keep them centered for freestyle or groomer riding. Ensure that you use the appropriate foot binding in the proper spot.

• 14

  Insert a boot into each binding and determine your stance angle. Make sure that the boot does not hang over the edge. Stance is a matter of personal preference and can be adjusted later. Beginners may consider using a duck stance in which the front binding is angled slightly toward the front and back binding is angled slightly toward the back. A more universal angle would be angling the front binding 15 degrees or so forward and the back binding 5 to 10 degrees forward.

• 15

  Insert the mounting disks and screw in with a Phillips Head screwdriver. Most bindings use a 4-screw mounting system. Install all screws tightly, and use Loctite if available.

• 16

  Set your lean. Each binding has a lever on the back in which you can set the lean. In general, you want a slight forward lean, but you can adjust to your preference. This adjustment is simple and can be done without any tools on many bindings, so you can adjust on the slopes as needed

• 17

  Stand on the board with your boots in the bindings, to ensure that the width, angle and lean of your stance is comfortable. Adjust if needed.

• 18

  Install a stomp pad between bindings for grip while skating.

• 19

  Install a leash on the front binding (if your local resort requires use of a leash).