How to Equalize a Rock Climbing Anchor With a Sliding X

Building a properly equalized rock climbing anchor, so that each part of the anchor shares the force equally, is a vital skill every beginning rock climber needs to learn. The "Sliding X" is a fast way of equalizing the anchor with some marked advantages--and a few disadvantages too.

Things You'll Need

  • Two solid anchor points
  • Three or more carabiners
  • Nylon sling
  • Climbing rope
Show More

Instructions

    • 1

      Select two solid points to build your anchor from. This method does not easily lend itself to more than two anchor points. They could be trees, rocky protrusions, heavy-duty bolts in the rock, or rock climbing gear places in cracks.

    • 2

      Verify that your anchor points are completely solid. Because the Sliding X uses only two anchor points, this is especially important.

    • 3

      Clip a carabiner to each anchor point. If you're using trees or rocky protrusions, you may need to wrap a sling around them first, then attach the carabiner to the sling. Make sure that your sling is solidly attached.

    • 4

      Run one sling through both carabiners. Pull the middle of the sling down in the anticipated direction of pull for the anchor. The middle of the sling should come to an acute or narrow angle when you pull. If it doesn't, use a longer sling.

    • 5

      Twist one side of the sling once around, making a small loop. Clip a screw-lock carabiner through this small loop and the other side of the sling. Then clip the rope through this carabiner and screw it shut.

    • 6

      Test the anchor before trusting your weight--and life--to it. Verify that everything is solidly attached and that the anchor will hold your weight. Slide the rope back and forth, tugging in different directions, and verify that the carabiner it's clipped through slides naturally and smoothly along the sling, pulling equally on both anchor points.

    • 7

      Continue checking the anchor periodically as you climb.