How to Equalize an Anchor in Rock Climbing

Equalizing marginal anchors is an excellent way to increase the strength of the anchors. In this example, we will focus on equalizing three anchors.

Things You'll Need

  • Climbing Gear
  • Climbing Harnesses
  • Climbing Helmets
  • Climbing Ropes
  • Climbing Shoes
Show More

Instructions

    • 1

      Set your anchors. Each anchor should have a carabiner attached to it.

    • 2

      Clip one long sling to each of the three anchor carabiners. The sling should be about three times as long as the distance between the outside anchors.

    • 3

      Pull 2 to 3 inches of slack in the sling and put a single twist in the section between anchors A and B.

    • 4

      Clip a carabiner into the loop made by the twist.

    • 5

      Clip the same carabiner into the free strand of the sling.

    • 6

      Repeat steps 4 through 6 for anchors B and C. Now you should have three anchors with a carabiner clipped to the sling between each anchor.

    • 7

      Pull the two free carabiners so that all the slack is taken out of the system. These are the carabiners that you will clip into. They should slide freely back and forth so that if the direction of pull changes slightly, the system will continue to put equal pressure on all anchors.