How to Bolt in Anchors on a Rock Face

Part of a secure climb includes knowing how to bolt in anchors on a rock face to catch you in the event of a fall. A properly set anchor will securely fasten to the rock face, extend over the edge of the cliff, be centered over the route, provide a muster point (where your anchor rope and climbing rope meet) that is unbroken, run rope smoothly through the muster point and be positioned so the rope can be protected from fraying as it runs over any edges. Nut, hex and cam-style anchor bolts are the three types of anchor bolts used when natural anchors like trees are not available.

Instructions

    • 1

      Locate a crag or section of rock where a bolt can be inserted. The crag should vector downward (become narrower as it goes down the rock face). This type of crag can be found in large cracks on the rock face or where two pieces of rock nearly join.

    • 2

      Determine the best bolt type to ensure maximum metal-to-rock contact. The jagged profiles of the square and the hex style-bolt are suitable for crags that vector downward with large access holes or slits. Cam-style bolts are suitable for crags that have a narrow insertion point through which a square or hex bolt will not fit. By pulling the cam's lever, you reduce the size of the head. As you release the cam lever, the cam expands to bolt into position.

    • 3

      Test your bolt for stability by pulling firmly in the direction your rope will go during a fall or rappel. As a rule of thumb, try to have as much metal-to-rock contact as possible on the anchor bolt. Once the anchor or multiple anchors have been tested, you can begin the process of attaching your anchor point and climbing ropes along with the necessary carabiners.