How to Set an Anchor in Rock

A properly constructed anchor is essential for all aspects of rock climbing and rappelling. An unsafe anchor renders all other safety equipment useless. Today's climbing instruction focuses on two different types of anchor building: traditional anchors, removable protection placed in the rock and bolted anchors, permanent protection placed in the rock. Bolted anchors require climbers to drill several holes in a featureless cliff for bolt placement. Traditional anchors utilize natural cracks, fissures and pockets in the rock to install removable anchor equipment. Both of these have appropriate uses in rock climbing.

Things You'll Need

  • Traditional climbing protection
  • Carabiners
  • Climbing webbing, 10-feet to 20-feet
  • Drill
  • Safety glasses
  • 1/2-inch drill bit
  • 3/8-inch drill bit
  • Rubber tubing
  • Hammer
  • Three expansion bolts
  • Three bolt hangers
  • Wrench
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Instructions

  1. Removable Anchors

    • 1

      Find a suitable crack or natural feature near your desired anchor location. Test the rock to verify that it is strong before you proceed. Crumbling rock, or rock with a hollow sound when knocked with a fist, is not an appropriate anchor location.

    • 2

      Place at least three pieces of traditional climbing protection in the rock: camming device, hex tool, nut, tricam or other. Test each piece with a strong tug after you place it.

    • 3

      Attach a carabiner to each piece of protection. Take both ends of a piece of climbing webbing and tie a water-knot, the most common knot used with webbing. The resources section has instructions on how to tie a water-knot properly.

    • 4

      Clip the webbing loop through each carabiner, forming a circle. Hold the bottom of the loop tight with one hand. This will be the master point of your anchor. Grab the section of webbing between the leftmost and center carabiners and pull it down to the master point. Repeat this process for the rightmost and center carabiners.

    • 5

      Holding the three loops of webbing, pull tight to ensure that the webbing runs tightly through all connection points. Tie an overhand knot making a loop at the master point. Attach the rope to the master point.

    Permanent Anchors

    • 6

      Find a suitable location in the featureless rock to install the anchor bolts. Ideal permanent anchor locations lack any imperfections or weaknesses. Mark three locations to drill the bolt holes. Arrange the bolts in a triangle, with the two outside bolts sitting level with each other and the center bolt slightly higher.

    • 7

      Attach a drill bit to your drill. The drill bit should be slightly longer than your expansion bolts. Put on your safety glasses. Carefully drill three holes in the rock for the permanent bolts. Position the holes at least six inches apart, with the center hole higher than the other two.

    • 8

      Take a section of rubber tubing and place one end in the hole. While still wearing your safety glasses, blow through the other end of the tube, removing dust and particles from the hole.

    • 9

      Position the expansion bolts in the holes and remove the nut. Hammer the bolt into the hole, leaving a half inch to one inch protruding from the hole. Place a bolt hanger on the expansion bolt and secure with the nut. A bolt hanger connects to the bolt and has a large opening for a carabiner. Tighten the nut securely, but do not too tight. As you tighten a climbing bolt, it expands in the hole. Repeat for all three bolts.

    • 10

      Attach a carabiner to each bolt hanger; connect the anchor webbing to the carabiners, forming a master point. Attach the rope to the anchor to complete the anchor.